An often-overlooked part of recurves is their limbs. Even though they’re durable and can take a beating, limbs must be stored properly to prevent problems. Never leave them inside a hot vehicle for long. Prolonged heat affects epoxies that hold limb layers together, which can cause twisting and even delamination.

In addition, never store a recurve by standing it on one limb. The riser’s weight and add-on accessories can deform the limb, especially if it’s stored like that for a long time. And even though modern recurve limbs can handle it, don’t leave your bow strung for long periods. Manufacturers such as Hoyt note that Korean archers unstring their bows when leaving a range for lunch.

Bowstrings can wear out quickly if you practice often and take lots of shots. Strings last longer if you apply a good wax every other week, which keeps out moisture while preventing string fibers from splitting. If you see strands fraying and breaking, buy a new string.

Speaking of moisture, shooting in the rain is fine and sometimes unavoidable. Just clean and dry your equipment when returning home or to your hotel. Disassemble your bow and its sight, plunger and stabilizers, and dry every piece with a towel, paper towel, or hair dryer. Moisture causes oxidation and possibly rust on some parts. Disassembling, drying, cleaning and reassembling your equipment reduces problems and on-the-go troubleshooting.

Bow maintenance is just one task you should learn. Likewise, arrow maintenance requires daily attention. If you miss the target, inspect that arrow before shooting it again, especially if it’s made of carbon, which weakens when hitting hard objects.

If it’s made of aluminum, check to ensure it didn’t bend. To check an arrow’s straightness, spin it with its point on your palm and the nock pointed up. If it spins without wobbling, it’s straight. Also check the shaft for dents or cracks, which can compromise the shaft’s integrity. You can check a carbon arrow for cracks by bending it with both hands and spinning it while bent. If you hear a crackling noise, the arrow is damaged and should be retired.

Shooting tight groups can also damage arrows. After shooting a tight group, check each arrow shaft for dents or cracks; and look for cracked nocks and damaged fletching. Dents and cracks weaken shaft integrity and make those arrows unsafe to shoot. Cracked nocks can explode if shot, which can cause a destructive dry-fire or injure the archer. Damaged fletching is less critical, but look for a tear in the fletch’s leading edge. Such tears cause arrows to fly erratically.

Conduct those three inspections every time you pull arrows from targets, especially when shooting with others.

Knowing your equipment is just one step to becoming a more skilled, knowledgeable archer. Most archers on the World Cup and World Championship circuits know their equipment thoroughly. That knowledge is a vital building block in their confidence as world-class archers.

The post Take Care of Recurve Equipment appeared first on Archery 360.

If you shoot a low draw weight or short draw length, you might struggle at longer distances, especially at 70 meters. A common problem is arrows falling short even after you adjust your sight to its lowest setting. If you encounter that problem, we have some tricks to help you hit the mark.

Outdoor Arrows

Have you switched to outdoor arrows? Indoor arrows are typically heavier, with a fatter diameter and larger fletching than outdoor arrows. Those features make indoor arrows the king at 18 meters, but for farther distances you’ll want lighter arrows with smaller vanes. If you need help selecting outdoor arrows, consult an archery shop’s technicians. These experts will help you choose your arrows and components, and then tune your bow for the setup.

Increase Draw Weight

Higher draw weights boost arrow speeds and flatten trajectories. If you decide to raise yours, increase it incrementally as you build strength to avoid injury. One of the best exercises for increasing draw weight is “specific physical training,” or SPT, which was developed by KiSik Lee, USA Archery’s head coach. SPT exercises usually require a bow, but resistance bands or other training devices that mimic drawing a bow also work.

The exercise is simple. Draw your bow and hold it at full draw with good form for at least 15 seconds but no more than 30 seconds. Then rest and repeat the process for 30 minutes to an hour. An hour of this exercise equates to shooting 200 to 250 arrows.

To ensure safe SPT with a bow, stand in front of a target with an arrow loaded. If you accidentally fire, you won’t damage your bow. Resistance bands let you do SPT workouts at home while watching TV or enjoying some fresh air and sunshine.

Don’t forget that increasing draw weight affects your arrow tuning. You might need to adjust your equipment when reaching your goal weight.

Move Your Sight Bracket Down

Simple solutions are sometimes all you need. If you can’t lower your scope or sight pin, try lowering the entire sight bracket. The brackets on most target sights can be removed, lowered and reinstalled so archers can lower their sight pin.

Lowering the pin lets you shoot targets farther away, but it can cause clearance problems if you move it into the arrow’s path. To test for clearance, put your arrow on the rest with its fletching forward. Hold the arrow level, as if you could shoot it, to see if the fletching touches the sights or scope.

Bring Your Sight In

Most target sights have an adjustable extension piece to move the sight in and out. Move your sight in to make your arrows hit higher. If you bring the sight all the way in, and you still can’t reach your desired distance, try flipping the bracket around, which brings the sight even closer. Watch the video above to see this method demonstrated.

With these tips and a little help from an archery pro, you’ll enjoy shooting farther distances.

The post 4 Tips for Hitting Outdoor Distances appeared first on Archery 360.

Shooting arrows and getting in the “reps” is advantageous to archers, especially in developing form and technique. Repeating the same actions over and again trains the muscles and mind to execute the shot subconsciously. That is the goal of every high-level archer; giving yourself too many instructions while competing isn’t normally a good thing. Olympic archers will shoot as many as 2,000 to 3,000 arrows in a week as part of their training so when the pressure is on, they have absolute trust in themselves and their process to execute the shots they need to hit the 10-ring.

Does that mean you need to be shooting 3,000 arrows per week? Probably not.

Periodization Training

Serious and competitive archers will always want to practice shooting, and they will want to have training sessions of 200 to 400 arrows, depending on where they are in their competition season. They won’t always shoot the maximum number of arrows that they can handle, but they will follow specific routines of how many arrows to shoot each day in the lead-up to their next big competition. This is called periodization training. Periodization refers to the raising and lowering of an archer’s arrow volume in order to achieve on-demand peak performance at a specific time or event. Without this, elite archers would suffer burnout and would not be able to endure an entire outdoor competition season that can last for several months.

Too much archery practice can lead to a myriad of problems, and the most common problem is repetitive use injuries. The repetitive motion of shooting a bow, combined with the one-sidedness of only pulling with your dominant side, can give you muscle or tendon strain that can take a while to heal. Knowing your limits with practice can help you avoid injury. Eager archers often want to increase their arrow volume in practice sessions too aggressively and too quickly, say, by jumping from 150 arrows one day to 300 the next. While some people can handle doing this, the majority of archers cannot. It is smarter to increase arrow volume a little at a time so your body doesn’t get a shock when too many arrows are shot in a single session. If you want to start bumping up your volume, a methodical procedure is the better way to go. For example, start with an arrow volume of 150 and stay there for several practice sessions. Then increase by 10% to 165 arrows per session for several sessions, and repeat. By following a similar process, you reduce the chances of injury in your shooting muscles while steadily increasing the volume of practice.

Giving yourself days off is also highly recommended to avoid practicing too much and giving yourself an injury. Most high-level Olympic archers take scheduled days off during their week to allow their bodies time to recover. As an example, the Dutch team takes the weekends off or does a very light volume of 100 arrows on either Saturday or Sunday (yes, 100 arrows is a small amount for those archers). The Turkish team trains for two weeks and then takes a day or two off, depending on where they are in the season. You will be able to find your limit of how much shooting is too much and devise a schedule to suit your needs.

Make sure that you don’t just shoot, but try to be active in other ways. If you want to stay in archery for a long time, you should take the time to keep yourself healthy and active. A balanced body will lead to fewer problems that can arise from the one-sided aspect of archery. Learn your own practice thresholds and you’ll be training — not overtraining — like the pros.

The post Can You Practice Too Much? appeared first on Archery 360.

Do you wind up your index finger before slapping the trigger? If yes, you might benefit from using a hinge release.

Punching a release-aid’s trigger is a common bad habit among archers. It usually causes them to tense-up and jerkily hit the trigger, which sends the arrow off course. Archers have several ways to break that habit, but one of the best solutions is switching to a hinge release, which has no trigger.

What’s a Hinge Release?

A hinge release, sometimes called a back-tension release, is a handheld release that fires by rotation. To make it go off, archers rotate the release from their index finger to their ring finger. The principle is to draw the bow mostly with your thumb and index finger, and then transfer the weight to your middle and ring finger until the shot breaks.

Drawing a Hinge Release

Drawing a hinge takes practice, and it’s possible to accidentally release the bowstring before reaching full draw. Therefore, when you first try one, use a shot trainer or a string tied in a loop. Also, set your release-aid so it requires lots of rotation to set off. After practicing on a shot trainer, move on to your bow, and practice drawing and letting down. Once you’re comfortable drawing a hinge, it’s time to learn how to set it off.

Hinge Release Techniques

Archers use several methods to rotate hinge releases. Your technique depends on personal preference. These common methods will get you started:

• Rotate the release from your thumb to your ring finger by manipulating the release with your hand.
• Relax the back of your hand. As your hand relaxes, the release naturally rotates.
• Transition the weight from your thumb and index finger to evenly distribute it across your index, middle and ring fingers. Next, pull your elbow behind and around your head to build pressure. The added pressure sets off the release.

Hinge Setup

As you experiment with these techniques, you’ll find what works best and develop your style. Another experiment is learning how much rotation sets off the release, and whether to use a “click” or “no click.”

A release requiring little movement to go off is called “hot,” and a release requiring lots of movement is called “cold.” Start with your release set cold, and slowly adjust it hotter. You want it to easily go off, but not too easily. By experimenting you’ll find your “Goldilocks” setting of “not too hot, not too cold.”

Most hinge releases can be set to click, which signals when it’s close to firing. Some archers find that helpful for setting up their shot. They’ll rotate the release until it clicks, and then start their shot-execution process. This feature is especially helpful if some shots go off quickly and others take a long time. The click gives a consistent starting point for the travel required to set off the release.

If you need help mastering a hinge release, find a coach at an archery shop by clicking here.

The post How to Use a Hinge Release appeared first on Archery 360.

We’ll break these key shooting steps into a few checkpoints that, when done properly, create more consistent shots. They include stance, hook, draw, expand/execution, and follow-through.

Stance

How you stand on the shooting line makes alignment easier, or harder, depending on your strength and flexibility. Most archers shoot with a slightly open stance, with the string-side foot forward of the bow-side foot to open their hips to the target. This stance requires a little torso twist to align the shoulders. The open stance also helps archers who have clearance issues in the chest and front shoulders.

The even “basic” stance keeps feet even with each other in relation to the target. If you drew a line across the front of your shoes, it would point at the target you intend to hit. This stance helps align your shoulders because it requires no twisting to offset open hips. However, because there’s no twisting, you might feel no tension through your torso.

Choosing the right stance is a vital first step to set up your shot. Be patient. You must experiment and play around a bit to learn what works best.

Hook

Recurve archers must also learn how to best hook the bowstring, which means putting your fingers around it. The two hook options are deep or shallow, and each have pros and cons. A shallow hook, which means grabbing the bowstring closer to the fingertips, offers a quicker release that feels cleaner. But because the bowstring is farther from the main knuckle, you might feel more tension in the string hand than you like. A deep hook, which means grabbing the bowstring between the fingers’ distal and proximal joints, promotes a more relaxed string grip. The release, however, can feel a bit rough because of how much of the fingers must move from the string’s path.

Draw

Drawing the bowstring is critical for how you get into, and use, your back in the process. Archers have hundreds of ways to draw a bowstring, but the two most common are linear and angular. Korean archers commonly use the linear draw, in which the bowstring does not move left or right while being drawn in a straight line to the anchor. American archers have popularized angular draws, in which the bowstring moves away from the body and then back to the anchor. Depending on your build, these two methods can engage your back muscles more efficiently.

Expand/Execution

You can think about coming through the clicker in many ways, but you basically have three alternatives: pull, push, or both. Most beginners learn to pull through the clicker when first using it. That single motion is the simplest, most effective way to get archers accustomed to using a clicker. Pushing through the clicker requires more body awareness. Archers hold the bowstring against their face at full draw, and push the riser away to activate the clicker. That works great if you have problems with a moving anchor, but the pushing motion presents a bigger problem; this should be done by expanding the shoulder, and not by lengthening the arm at the elbow, as in a pushup or tricep extension. Combining the pull and push is commonly called expanding through the clicker. It takes time to synchronize this method, but it’s an effective way to come through the clicker.

You’ll execute these moves properly when all the pieces fall into place, and you don’t think about finishing the shot. Granted, it can take a few years to shoot on autopilot, but most top-level archers do not tell themselves to follow through or use their back an exact amount. Execution means keeping your back engaged as the arrow leaves the bow, and keeping your bow arm up and toward the target to “guide” the arrow toward the middle.

Follow-Through

Much as golfers and baseball players don’t stop their swing upon contact with the ball, archers shouldn’t stop their motion after the clicker sounds and they release the arrow. Indications of a good follow-through are the string hand moving away from the bow upon release, and a strong post-shot “pose.” The archer’s core is solid and the arms remain up, creating an uppercase T shape. Strong follow-throughs help archers hit the middle consistently, and ensure efficient arrow releases.

These instructions outline possibilities on how best to draw a bow and shoot arrows. Talk to your coach and experiment to learn which options work best. Another fun way to explore your options is to go online and watch videos of archers you admire to see how they do it. Copying the best can generate faster results.

The post How to Draw a Bow appeared first on Archery 360.

The term “recreational vehicle” encompasses a lot of territory, ranging from toppers you slide into the bed of a pickup and pop-up camper trailers to Greyhound-bus-sized, Class A motorhomes—and everything in between. So, the first thing to think about before purchasing an RV is just what kind of RV you’re looking for and whether it suits your needs. If you’re not certain, attend an RV show or visit a large dealership with a variety of RVs. Once you have an idea of the type of RV you’re looking for, consider renting one for a few days from a place like CruiseAmerica or RVshare. Doing so affords you the opportunity to better determine what type of RV will best fit your needs.

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When thinking of purchasing an RV, you need to consider how you will use it. Are you imagining a few weekend camping trips at a nearby state park each summer, or are you planning to sell the house and hit the road? Do you want to stay in RV parks or communities, or is your plan to find a secluded site of a service road in a national forest? How you plan to use your RV will make a big difference in deciding what type of RV best suits your plans.

Another thing to consider before buying an RV is whether you’re prepared to do so. If you’re buying a larger, heavier motorhome, do you need to have a special license to drive it in the area(s) in which you want to use it? Do you have the experience necessary to safely operate—including backing and parking—a larger vehicle? If you’re looking at a trailer or tow-behind RV, is your tow vehicle prepared (i.e., does it have a tow package?) and rated to haul the weight of the RV you’re considering? Do you have the experience necessary to safely attach, detach, and tow a trailer the length and weight of the one you’re considering? These are the types of things you’ll need to take into account when deciding whether you’re prepared for RV ownership and what you’ll need to do in order to become prepared.

Class A through C motorhomes are self-propelled, with their own fuel needs and engines. Driving and maintaining these types of RVs can be considerably more expensive than driving and maintaining a passenger vehicle. And no matter what type of RV you have, even if it’s “just” a truck camper, there will always be some kind of seasonal maintenance to be done. Are you able to maintain your RV yourself, if not, how much can you afford to spend on annual maintenance and repairs? Do you have a place to store your RV? If not, how much can you afford to spend on annual storage fees? Getting your head around how much you can afford to maintain and store an RV can help you decide what kind of RV to purchase.

Because of the way that RVs tend to lose value, obtaining financing for your purchase is not as easy getting a loan to buy a car. Part of the reason for this is that there simply are not as many lenders out there who finance RV purchases are there are auto lenders. You should be prepared to put more money down on an RV purchase—think at least 10 percent—and pay a higher interest rate (because there’s less RV lending money out there) than you would for a home mortgage or auto loan.

Whether you choose to buy a brand-new RV or a used “classic” will probably come down to a combination of budget and personal preference. Clearly, you will likely save some money if you purchase a used RV, but then you have to be prepared to do an extremely thorough inspection to locate and uncover any existing or potential problems likely to cost you more time and money down the line. A new RV is less likely to have as many problems as a used rig, but you also have the problem, in most cases, of near-immediate depreciation in value. Some makes, Airstream and Scamp, for example, tend to hold their value better than others, so you may do a little better by purchasing a new model for only slightly more than you’d pay for an RV with years-worth of other people’s wear and tear on it.

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Once you’ve decided on the type of RV that you want, it’s time to start researching. Get a handle on how much you should be paying for it by looking at other models for sale—through both dealers and individuals—and checking the value range from a resource like NADA Guides or RV Trader. If the price isn’t where you think it should be, new or used, be prepared to negotiate. You’ll likely have to pay some mark-up, but you don’t need to put the seller’s kids through college.

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One thing to know about RV manufacturing is that the components are designed to be as light as possible in order to reduce weight. This means that they are not always made from the most solid of materials. So, whether you’re buying a new or used RV, you need to a do a thorough inspection before you hand over your hard-earned money. New or used, signs of interior moisture are the biggest red flags to look for when buying an RV. Check the interior with a moisture meter. Anything above 20 percent means there is a problem that needs attention. Look for signs of water damage or mold. Look for damage to floors. Bounce up and down in the kitchen, bathroom, or anywhere near water to check for soft spots. Inspect the exterior for damage, especially around window and door frames and vents. Always check the tires to make sure they are currently serviceable. Use the VIN number to get the vehicle’s history to see if it’s ever been involved in an accident. Finally, always try and buy from a reputable RV dealer, as they will often have the ability to fix any problems—or agree to do so—before you sign on the dotted line.

Before you even start packing your backpack, the very first thing you’ll want to do is organize the gear that you’ll be taking with you on the trip.

Start by laying it all out on the floor to get a sense of everything you plan to bring along. This gives you the opportunity to take a quick inventory of your equipment and identify the things that might be missing from the collection, not to mention the items that aren’t necessary for that particular outing. It is also a good way to assess whether or not your backpack has the capacity to haul everything you want to take with you.

Once you’ve collected all of the gear that you’ll be using on your trip, the next step is to start putting all of it inside your pack.

Naturally that means starting at the bottom, where you’ll place the items that you’ll least likely need to access throughout the day or when you first arrive at camp that night. Those items generally include the following:

• Sleeping bag
• Extra camp shoes
• Any layers of clothing that you aren’t likely to need on the trail that day. 

To get started:

A. First place your sleeping bag at the very bottom of the pack. This helps give the bag some shape and provides a soft cushion where the pack rests against your lower back.

B. If you’re bringing an extra pair of shoes, place them on top of the sleeping bag.

C. Then stuff your additional layers of clothing on or around the shoes to help hold everything securely in place.

The middle section of your backpack is where you want to store heavier items that you won’t necessarily need while hiking.

This creates a good center of gravity, helping you to maintain your sense of balance on the trail, even while scrambling over rocks or up and down rough terrain. If bulky items are too close to the bottom they can cause the backpack to hang lower than it should, potentially causing discomfort. If those items are placed near the top, they can alter the center of gravity, creating instability. They would also just be in the way when trying to access items that need to be more readily available.

The gear that you’ll want to stash in the core section of your pack includes your:

• Tent
• Camp stove
• Cooking pots
• Any food that you won’t need throughout the day.
• It is also a good place to store extra clothing, fuel canisters, and a bear canister (for storing food) if one is required where you’ll be camping.

Finally, you’ll top off your backpack with the items that you’re most likely need to access during the day, as well as the things you’ll want close at hand should an emergency arise.

For example, if it starts to rain, you’ll want to be able to grab your rain gear as quickly as possible, so having a waterproof jacket in an easily accessible place is a good idea. The top of the pack is also a good place to stash your lunch, too, as you’re likely to stop somewhere along the way for a quick meal.

Other items that should be packed close to the top include:

• An insulated jacket
• First aid kit
• Any toilet supplies 

The top of your pack is also the perfect location for your headlamp, extra snacks, and a water filter, as those are important items you may need to grab while en route from one campsite to the next.

With the inside of your pack quickly filling up, you’ll find extra storage space outside of the bag to be a handy place to store smaller items. For instance, most packs have gear straps at the bottom that are perfect for attaching a sleeping pad. Lashing points are good for holding trekking poles and ice axes, or attaching a GPS device or compass via a lanyard for easy access.

External pockets are designed for holding tent poles, a water bottle, or a pair of shoes. A lightweight solar panel can even be connected to the pack for charging small electronics while you’re on the go.

Most backpacks have hip belts equipped with small zippered pockets, too. These are handy for keeping energy bars, a camera, or a smartphone within easy reach.

Once you’ve securely loaded all of the gear in your pack and made sure your footwear is in order, you’ll be ready to hit the trail. By following these guidelines, the weight load should be well distributed, and all of your equipment should be organized, too. This will make hiking with a full pack much more enjoyable and keep things simple when arriving at your campsite at the end of the day.

Because these vehicles are meant to be used on unpaved areas, there are risks involved, thus certain pieces of gear are required if you want to ride safely. Depending on where you plan to go, you may be able to rent a lot of items from local outfitters—especially in tourist areas. Considering that a brand new ATV can run anywhere from $3,000 to over $12,000, giving the sport a “test drive” by renting is just smart.

Here’s the essential gear needed for riding ATVs:

 Head and neck injuries account for 29 percent of ATV-related injuries. Don’t be a hot shot—always, always wear a helmet.

Not only will they make it easier to see where you’re going, they’ll save your eyeballs from unexpected encounters with rocks, dust, and branches.

This means long pants and shirtsleeves, boots that go over the ankle, gloves, and a chest protector. Remember that you’re riding in areas where anything and everything can be kicked up by your vehicle, so don’t take any chances of being the target of some random projectile. Also, you can get seriously nasty burns if you fall off. The right clothing can minimize any injuries. 

A fully-charged cell phone in case you get lost or someone gets seriously hurt.

Pack a few basic items like a Swiss Army knife, duct tape, and a vise grip. Experienced riders also swear by those plastic zip ties—you’d be surprised at how many uses they have.

A flat tire or slow leak can ruin your ride.

When your riding partner has gotten their vehicle stuck in a crazy place, this could make the difference in getting it back on the trail—or not.

You never know when you and your riding partner may need to patch up a few cuts and scrapes. And while most cell phones have a GPS feature, batteries don’t last forever. Take a map of the area (if available) and compass with you in case you have to navigate the old-fashioned way.  

It’s easy to lose track of your fuel when you’re having fun. Pack extra.

You’d be surprised at how fast you can get dehydrated when riding, especially in the warm summer months. Dehydration can make you feel faint, so drinking enough water won’t just make your ride more comfortable, it’s a good safety tip.

So before climbing aboard, take the time to outfit all members of your “ATV team” with the right gear. It will make your ride much more fun—not to mention, safe.

*Note: Age restrictions, special licenses, and other requirements for off highway vehicles vary from state to state. Before heading out on your OHV, please consult your local regulations.

Fortunately, there are now a number of great solutions available for charging our electronic equipment while on the go. So, whether you’re heading out for just the day or for weeks at a time, these are the best ways to prevent your devices from running out of juice and becoming nothing more than dead weight in your pack.

Even if you’re just going out for day hike, it is always a good idea to take a portable battery pack with you just in case. Sometimes you find yourself hiking for far longer than you expected and the last thing you want is for your smartphone or rechargeable headlamp to die on you just when you need it most.

There are literally dozens of compact battery packs to choose from, but if you’re going to be spending a considerable amount of time in the outdoors, you’ll want one that is rugged and built to withstand the elements. 

Lifeproof’s LifeActive Power Pack ($79.99) fits that description nicely, offering enough power to recharge an iPhone more than three times and featuring a durable case that is both water and drop-proof. The LifeActive includes a quick-charging USB port for rapid refills and bright LED lights that allow it to be used as a flashlight or emergency flasher, too. 

If you are camping or traveling for a few days at a time, a higher capacity battery pack is likely in order. On longer getaways you’re more likely to be carrying extra electronic gear with you, such as a camera, GPS device, or Bluetooth speaker. You’ll also need to keep your smartphone running for extended periods of time too, which can be a challenge in and of itself. 

The RAVPower Exclusives Solar Power Bank ($52.99) stores enough energy to recharge a smartphone as many as ten times and it comes with a built-in flashlight too. It is also dust, drop, and waterproof, has multiple USB in and out ports for rapid recharging, and is equipped with its own solar panel to help keep its internal battery topped off as well.

An extended camping trip lasting a week or longer could involve a considerable amount of electronic gear. Not only will smartphones, cameras, and GPS devices be a part of the mix, but tablets, laptops, and even drones may come along for the journey too.

In those circumstances, you’ll need a much larger power source, typically moving away from compact battery packs in favor of portable power stations instead. What these devices lack in portability they make up for with batteries that are much higher in capacity. They’ll also offer more options when it comes to charging ports too.

The Jackery Explorer 240 ($230) is a great choice when choosing this type of portable power station, bringing a nice mix of size, capacity, and charging options. With 240 watt-hour of battery life it can recharge an iPhone more than 15 times, or a laptop as many as 2-4 times.

And since it features an AC wall outlet built right in, it can be used to power just about anything, from LCD televisions to small appliances. It also includes two quick-charging USB ports and a 12-volt DC port too. On top; of that, it can even be recharged in the field using Jackery’s 50-watt solar panel. 

For those who spend extended periods of time in the backcountry and need power in a base camp setting, a larger power station is likely in order. Not only will you need more capacity, you’ll definitely want more charging ports and outlets too.

Compatibility with a solar panel is a must too since you’ll need a way to recharge the power station over an extended period of time. With the right set-up, you could theoretically stay off the grid indefinitely and keep your electronic gear charged the entire time. 

For these long-term needs, Goal Zero’s Yeti 1000 Lithium is the perfect choice. Not only does it offer more than 1000-watt hours of power, but it includes two AC wall outlets, a 12-volt DC port, and four USB ports, all in a package that weighs just 40 pounds. It is also compatible with the company’s Boulder 100-watt portable solar panel for convenient charging anywhere. 

The easy way? Buy a bolt-action rifle in .30-06, put a good 3-9X scope on it and call it done. You might also call this process boring. This gun can do the job any place deer are hunted. Is it perfect for all deer hunting? Of course not. Now we are getting to the hard stuff. But, it’s also the fun stuff. Most hard core hunters will want to refine their rifle choice to match their hunting style, region they’re hunting in and personal preferences. Here’s how to find a great deer rifle just for you.

Bolt actions dominate the deer woods today, but there are still places where a lever action, pump or even a semi-auto shines bright. It all depends on where you hunt, how you hunt and your preferences in rifles.

In the Northeast, tracking is a very popular way to hunt deer. It is without a doubt the best option for hunting big bucks in the North Country. I know this because I have written two books on the topic.

Those who track deer and those who love to still hunt in other parts of the country have similar needs in a deer rifle.

The most popular rifle for tracking is the Remington Model 7600 pump action. It fits the hand well and is not too heavy to carry all day long. It points like a shotgun for those fast snap shots and is extremely quick for follow-up shots. The most popular cartridges are the .30-06 Springfield and .270 Winchester. I use a .35 Whelen, but Remington stopped chambering the M7600 for the .35 Whelen cartridge so if you want one, it will have to come off the used gun rack.

Southern hunters are often in a box blind watching a greenfield. They have some of the same requirements that hunters anywhere in the country who watch clear cuts, powerlines or large agricultural fields have. They need a rifle that is light enough to carry to and from the stand easily and accurate enough for a longer shot. Lucky for them, this is exactly where a lot of the new rifle introductions have been focused. 

The precision rifle is very popular today and are very affordable. Ruger started the affordability trend with the RPR, now Remington, Savage and perhaps others have jumped into the market. The precision rifle is usually built on a chassis rather than a stock. The chassis can be adjusted to fit the individual shooter, so the guns can be tuned to the hunter. They are designed for long-range target shooting, but in an appropriate cartridge, they are a great choice for the hunter who may encounter a long shot. The downside of these rifles is that they tend to be a bit heavy, but that’s not a big problem if you are sitting on a stand.

The new generation of hybrid rifles are combining the best features of a precision long-range target rifle and a hunting rifle. The results are very accurate hunting rifles that can manage long-range assignments just fine. Examples include the Browning Hell’s Canyon Speed Ruger’s Hawkeye FTW Hunter or the Remington Model 700 Long Range. They are very accurate and light enough to carry. One big advantage is that they are chambered for some very powerful cartridges.

Precision rifles are usually short-action designs chambered for cartridges like the 6mm Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor or .308 Winchester. These cartridges are all very capable for deer hunting, but a hybrid rifle in .300 Winchester or any of several other long-action cartridges provides a lot more wallop at the target.

If you are in the market for your first rifle, budget might be a big factor. Consider the new generation of budget-priced, bolt-action rifles. I just came in from the range where I shot a Mossberg Patriot in 6.5 Creedmoor that I am going to hunt blacktail deer in California with. I was using Barnes Vortex LR ammo with 127-grain LRX bullets. My last 100-yard group measured just under half an inch. That’s good accuracy from a precision rifle and outstanding from a budget-priced hunting rifle. I have also seen excellent accuracy from the Ruger American rifle, Remington 783 and the Savage Apex. Budget price does not mean budget performance anymore.

Remington dropped their Model 750 semi-auto rifle a few years ago, ending more than a century of providing hunters with a self-shucking hunting rifle. I think that Browning may be the last of the breed with their BLR rifles. My BLR is in .30-06 and is accurate enough that I once shot the head off a rabbit at 300 yards with the rifle. (I won a bet and filled our bellies at the same time.)

New Ammo for Deer 

The ammo trend in deer hunting this year is for long-range hunting. Hornady has their new ELD-X long-range hunting bullet in most of the popular long-range cartridges now. That includes one of my all-time favorite deer cartridges, the .280 Ackley Improved. Look for more guns and ammo in this cartridge in the coming year.

Photograph Courtesy of Hornady Manufacturing Company

Almost every major manufacturer is now offering rifle ammo that is tailor made for long-range deer hunting.

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Barnes has a new line of Vortex Long Range ammo with a wide selection of cartridges. I have long been a fan of Barnes bullets for their performance on big game and this new line has really impressed me with its accuracy. It meets the lead free requirements for places like where we will be hunting soon in California.

Remington’s Hypersonic ammo provides up to 200 fps. more velocity to help flatten the trajectory and to carry more energy to the animal.

Federal’s new long-range load, the EDGE TLR, features a Trophy Bonded bullet and is some of the most accurate hunting ammo I have tested.

Black Hills Gold Ammo has always been loaded with some of the best hunting bullets like the Barnes TSX. New this year they have added Hornady ELD-X bullets to several cartridges.

One of the biggest changes with this current generation of deer hunters is the acceptance of AR-style rifles for hunting. In the smaller AR-15 platform I am not a fan of the .223 Remington for deer, particularly from the shorter barrels common on these rifles. However, the .450 Bushmaster, .458 Socom and the .50 Beowulf are all hard-hitting cartridges that turn off the switches. The vast majority of deer, particularly in the East, are shot at distances of less than 200 yards and these cartridges can handle that if the shooter can.

The larger AR-10 or ARL rifles are designed for the .308 Winchester. That entire family includes some outstanding deer cartridges. The .243 Winchester, .260 Remington, 7mm-08 Remington and .308 Winchester are all offered in these rifles. My personal favorite is the .338 Federal, which is a hard-hitting cartridge. I have recently been shooting a Wilson Combat AR style rifle in .358 Winchester, one of my all-time favorite deer cartridges.

The ARL rifles are rugged, dependable in any weather and are exceedingly accurate. This style rifle is very capable of long range hunting. As semi-autos they are very fast for follow up shots. The design ergonomics make these guns easy to hold comfortably in position while waiting. The pistol grip of the ARL rifle keeps the hand in a more natural position while you wait for the deer.

The Browning BLR lever action is chambered for several modern cartridges and has a following with deer hunters. The traditional lever actions once dominated the deer woods but have fallen out of favor in recent years. Still a great choice, they just are not all that popular with today’s new deer hunters. Some straight-wall cartridges, however, are enjoying a comeback of sorts.

Many states that had shotgun-only restrictions are now allowing straight-walled rifle cartridges to be used. The most popular are the .450 Bushmaster, .444 Marlin and the .45-70. Lever-action rifles, like the Marlin 1895 or Henry Lever Action rifle in .45-70, are an obvious choice. Where legal they are fast for follow-up shots. They are also accurate and easy to carry.

I’ll be hunting for giant Midwest whitetails this year with a Marlin 1895 in .45-70. I’ll have it loaded with Barnes Vortex 300 grain ammo and be ready for any shot out to 250 or maybe even 300 yards.

If you are like me, you look at all these choices and think, “I would really like one of each.” Economic reality forbids that of course, but you have to agree it sure is nice to have options.

This means getting your base pack weight down to somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 to 20 pounds, while packing smart to bring the items to keep you safe and comfortable at the same time.

But getting started with ultralight hiking can be a bit daunting, making it difficult to know what you should and shouldn’t bring with you on a backpacking excursion. If you’ve been looking for ways to dip your toe in the ultralight pond, we have 10 tips that can help you get started. 

One of the first things you should do when looking to cut excess weight from your pack is to evaluate everything that you’re bringing with you. Chances are there are some items that you don’t actually need that are just taking up space and adding ounces.

For instance, one set of clothes that function as a good layering system is all that you really need to stay comfortable on the trail. It may be nice to have something clean to put on every day, but if you want to travel faster and lighter, that is a luxury you’ll have to learn to do without. 

When selecting the gear that you want to take with you, break out the scale and check to see just how much everything weighs. You may discover that items you thought were lightweight are actually heavier than you imagined. You’ll also gain a better sense of what is contributing to your overall pack weight, too.

A good backpack is essential to any hiking excursion, but if your pack is more than a couple of years old, or hasn’t been specifically designed to go ultralight, it probably weighs more than it should.

These days, a lightweight pack often tips the scales at less than two pounds, which is substantially lighter than most other bags on the market. For instance, Hyperlight Mountain Gear’s 2400 Southwest model weighs just 1.9 pounds and offers 40-liters of carrying capacity, making it a great choice for nearly any adventure.

Osprey’s Levity line (for men) and Lumina Line (for women) of ultralite packs is also an excellent option to consider.

Tents made of all mesh have replaced traditional shelters for many lightweight hikers, but there are several other options to consider as well. For instance, a lot of ultra-lighters prefer to use a simple tarp to keep wind and rain at bay, while others have taken to using hammocks instead.

With a weight of just 5.8 ounces, the ENO Sub6 is a popular option for hammock campers, while the Zpacks Hexamid Pocket Tarp is even lighter at 3.4 ounces. 

Rather than bringing a sleeping bag for the worst conditions that you could encounter, bring one that is designed for use in the conditions you are most likely to be camping in. That bag will naturally be smaller and lighter, but still comfortable. Should an unexpected cold snap hit, bundle up in some extra layers for added warmth.

Traditionally, hikers have worn rugged boots to keep their feet well protected on the trail, and while those shoes have gotten lighter over the years, they still tend to be heavier than what ultralight backpackers need.

Instead, consider switching to a pair of trail running shoes, which still offer plenty of protection and stability while also managing to cut a serious amount of weight. Altra’s Lone Peak 3.5 is a popular option that doesn’t compromise support while still weighing just 12.5 ounces.

While hydration reservoirs and Nalgene bottles are usually standard equipment on most hiking trips, they do add extra weight to your pack. A disposable 1-liter water bottle is inexpensive, refillable, weighs less than 6 ounces, and offers plenty of capacity to keep you hydrated on the trail. When you return home, simply recycle it.

Gear that can serve more than one purpose can save weight and make you more efficient. For instance, trekking poles are not only good for maintaining balance on tricky trails, but they can also serve as poles for your shelter, too.

Similarly, a Buff can be used as a hat, headband, balaclava, or even a scarf, while a multitool, like Leatherman’s Signal, can serve numerous functions, too. The more versatile a piece of gear is the more likely you’ll want to carry it. 

Buying new lightweight gear isn’t always an option, but you can modify your existing gear to save some weight. For example, remove excesses belts, straps, and buckles from your backpack to shave ounces or leave tent stakes at home in favor of a free-standing shelter instead.

Ultralight backpackers will go to great lengths to remove unnecessary weight, including cutting the handle off their toothbrush, crafting a stove from a cat food can, and taking a first aid kit with only the bare minimum of items. 

A smartphone can be incredibly useful on the trail, serving as a GPS device, camera, and entertainment center. But mobile phones and other electronic gadgets also require power to keep them working, otherwise they just become dead weight. That means you’ll also need to carry a battery pack, solar panel, or some other method for keeping the device charged in the backcountry. 

All of these items add extra weight to your pack that you don’t necessarily need. Besides, part of the reason we go into the wilderness is to escape those devices in the first place. 

This may sound like a no-brainer, but when you book a charter or hire a guide, make sure they have expertise and experience in putting their clients on the species of fish you hope to target. A guide may know where all the redfish are along a particular piece of coastline but that doesn’t necessarily mean they can put you on a yellowfin. Check out their websites and social media, read reviews, and ask questions. Of course, with fishing, there are never any guarantees (otherwise it would be called “catching,” right?) but it sure helps if you’re looking in the right places with someone who knows what they’re doing.

If you want to fish using a particular technique, look for a guide who is an expert in fishing the way you’d like to. For example, if you want to drift a river throwing streamers at steelhead, you probably don’t want a guide with a bass boat and a wide selection of bait casters. If you want to fly fish, look for a fly guide. If you want to troll, make sure your guide has a boat set up for trolling. You get the idea. In some cases, of course, if you’re unfamiliar with what techniques work best, you’ll have to rely on the guide’s experience and expertise in catching the target species and just roll with it.  

Fishing charters and guide services vary wildly by price. Local freshwater guides tend to be less expensive than deep-sea fishing charters. The price you pay is largely a matter of how much it costs the guide or charter captain to run their business, as well as their expertise and experience. Driving you to a blue-ribbon trout river will not set back a young guide as much as a four-hour run to the best offshore structure in the area will ding an experienced charter captain. You get the idea. That being said, you can often find differences in pricing in a given local area. Compare the costs a few different services before making a decision.

The cost of a charter or guide service can be pretty steep, especially if they only offer full-day or whole-boat services, and you’re going by yourself or as part of an angling pair. Look for charters that will book a share—often one-quarter or one-sixth of the whole-boat cost, depending on the size of the boat—or guides that will work with a group of individually-paying customers. Some guides and charters are willing to do half-day (or even shorter) outings, which is another way to save some money. You may find yourself fishing with strangers, but you’ll make new friends and won’t feel as much pain in your wallet. 

What you hope and expect from a charter or guide is up to you, and in fishing hotspots, there is typically plenty of competition for your client dollars. You can find anything from bare-bones B-Y-O-everything guide services to everything-included charters, and a variety of options in between. So, when considering how much you’re spending, think about what you’re getting for it. Are you happy getting nothing more than wily old Willy’s walleye wisdom, or since you’re already in it for a few hundred dollars, would you prefer a little lunch with the package? On the other hand, are free beverages enough to justify the cost difference between two otherwise-comparable charters? The experience you want is up to you—just make sure you’re comfortable paying for it. 

Your backpack is likely the piece of camping gear that sees the most wear and tear throughout the season—especially if you’re a backpacker or ultralight camper. It probably gets tossed on the ground, rained on, spilled in, sweated on, zipped and unzipped, strapped and unstrapped more often than any other piece of gear you use. Start your off-season maintenance with a thorough cleaning. Begin by hand washing and scrubbing inside every pocket and compartment and along every strap with mild soap. If you choose to try and use a washing machine to clean your pack, stuff it in a pillowcase first. This will keep the straps from flailing around and gumming things up. Never machine dry your pack.

As for repairs, make sure all the zippers are in good working order. Then check the buckles and straps from breakage or wear. Your pack’s manufacturer will most likely be able to send you any replacement parts you need. Any holes or fabric tears should be sewn or patched. Tenacious Tape products from Gear Aid make for a quick and easy fix for smaller rips and tears.

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Your sleep system typically consists of a sleeping bag or quilt, a bag liner, a sleeping pad, and often, some kind of pillow. Start with your bag or quilt. Wash it in a front-loading machine in cold water and on a gentle cycle. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions with respect to drying. Make sure all the zippers are working as they should and there are no tears or wear in the fabric to which the zippers are attached. In the event a zipper repair is needed, and it’s beyond your skill level, reach out to the manufacturer or a local gear repair shop for help. Next, check the bag for any rips or tears in the fabric. Again, for minor damage, Tenacious Tape is an excellent solution. Major rips and tears will likely need to be sewn. Store your sleeping bag in a loose, mesh or cloth bag. Don’t keep it in a stuff sack or compression bag—especially if it’s down.

Bag liners and non-inflatable pillows simply need to be washed and dried according to their attached tags. Then check for rips or holes. A small tear in a bag liner is not a big deal, but pillow filling can make a mess. So, patch and repair these, as necessary.

Wipe down sleeping pages and inflatable pillows mild soap and water. Then check any inflatables—pillows and/or pads—for air leaks. This can be done by submerging the inflated pad or pillow in a tub and watching for bubbles. If you find a leak, patch it using the kit that came with your pad or a repair kit like that sold by Therma Rest. If the leak is along a seam, use a silicone seam adhesive to fix it. 

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Regardless of the type of shelter you use while camping, whether it’s an ultralight tarp you erect with your hiking poles or an eight-person base camp tent, you rely on it to keep yourself out of the elements. This is why off-season maintenance of your shelter is crucial. Again, start with with a thorough cleaning. Shake out your shelter, as well as your fly, to remove any sand, small rocks, or other abrasive debris. If you use a footprint, there’s likely some caked on mud, dirt or dust on the fabric—shake off as much as you can. Rain flies and tent walls are also not immune to mud splatters and dirt tracked in on feet. Set up the tent and use a mild soap, diluted in plenty of water, to give your shelter system a through cleaning. 

Once it has dried, make sure all the zippers and buckles are in working order, then check all the fabric, mesh, straps, and seams for rips, wear, or holes. Replacement buckles and straps can typically be ordered from the manufacturer, and a product like Tenacious Tape is excellent for repairing tears or holes in the fabric—Gear Aid also makes patches for repairing tent mesh and a silicone sealer for repairing tent seams. For seasonal storage, fold your tent along the seams and pack it flat—don’t just jam it back into its stuff sack.

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Think back to last season. Did a fogged scope cost you a big buck? Did your treestand squeak when you tried to get into position for a shot? Did you leave a hunt early or skip going out altogether because of inclement weather? 

Now is the time to remedy all those problems. Available stock on sporting goods always seems to be in short supply just before season. Don’t wait until the gear you need is sold out before you start shopping. Purchasing early also allows you to get familiar with your new equipment, particularly firearms and optics. Not having to stop to think about where the safety is on a new rifle can mean the difference in getting off a shot and watching your quarry disappear into the cover. 

Summer is also a great time to score deals on merchandise that will be full price as fall and early winter hunting seasons draw near. Many retail and online suppliers drastically mark down leftover merchandise from last season before new stock comes in, and you might be able to upgrade gear that needs replacing without spending as much as you will later on. 

Not everyone is lucky enough to have the space to safely practice with their favorite hunting firearms on private land. That means regular trips to a public shooting range or an investment in a gun club membership will be the solution. As hunting seasons draw near, these ranges get crowded, though, and long waits, lots of distractions and short time limits don’t make for quality practice time. Go to those same ranges in the month or so before the official start of autumn and you often have them to yourself. That means more time to work with multiple firearms, less downtime for target changes and easy access to multiple lanes for various firing distances. 

If a fogged or malfunctioning scope messed up last year’s deer season, now is the time to upgrade. You’ll need a few tools to mount a new scope to your rifle, starting with a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers with bits that fit tightly into your scope mount choice. The right bits lessen the chance of one slipping out and scratching your rifle or scope. A quality torque screwdriver, preferred by many gunsmiths, can also prevent overtightening a screw and either snapping it off or stripping the threads. Most scope manufacturers recommend 20 to 25 pounds of torque to adequately tighten screws without causing damage. 

To keep your screws from backing out from repeated recoil, a drop of thread-locking compound like Loctite applied to the screw threads before tightening is a good idea. Clean the screws with alcohol or a commercially produced gun scrubber to remove any oil from the threads before applying the thread locker. 

When it comes time to mount the scope, place your rifle (unloaded, of course) in a vise and, while sitting in a normal shooting position, adjust the scope back and forth until you can see the full scope diameter while looking through it. A dark ring around the view means your scope is too far away. Slide it back a bit until you get a full view through the scope. Take care not to move the scope too far to the rear—no one likes to get cracked in the eye by their scope when their gun recoils. For most scopes, three to four inches between the scope’s eyepiece and your eye—the eye relief—is about right. The scope’s manufacturer also states the eye relief for whatever model you have.

Once you have your scope positioned correctly for eye relief, use a scope level to ensure your crosshairs are vertical. (Tip! A scope level also helps you keep your rifle aimed in a level way and can help you correct cant, or tilt, in your gun before you pull the trigger.) When everything is to your liking, apply the thread locker and install the screws to the recommended torque. Tighten them in rotation—left, right, front, back, repeat—until tight. Give the thread locker 15 to 30 minutes to dry before firing your rifle.

Walk through the ammo section of your favorite store these days (the summer of 2020, with coronavirus pandemic news still in focus) and the empty shelves might shock you. You may have to do some internet digging, place an order with your favorite retailer or start hitting the road to find a dealer further out that stocks what you need now, because if you wait until just before season to stock up, and you might be plumb out of luck. 

Not every firearm shoots well with every brand of ammo or even every load within a brand. Luckily, hunters have a dizzying number of choices across just about any caliber imagined, and summer, with its less-crowded ranges, is a good time to get together with your hunting buddies and compare loads. If you happen to shoot the same caliber, share a few loads with each other and test them in your rifle. You might find a new favorite. 

Don’t know anyone who shoots the same caliber you do? Pick three to four factory loads with different velocities, bullet weights and styles applicable to the game you hunt and test each one. Chances are good that one will outperform the rest. Once you’ve found your load, stock up all that you can (especially in this unusual year) to get you through the season so you don’t find yourself scrambling to find more when inventories are at their traditional lowest. 

The one caveat about summer rifle shooting is that once temperatures do drop, you’ll want to hit the range again and confirm your zero. This is especially true for really cold mornings. The first shot out of a cold rifle is going to be the same cold shot you take on a deer, so you want to know where it’s going to go, and it’s likely going to be different than that first shot out of a barrel on a 90-degree day. Shoot often and reconfirm as conditions dictate. It’s all about knowing your gun.

Summer—not the weekend before season opens—is the time to get out treestands, ladders, climbing sticks, harnesses, and safety ropes for a safety inspection. (Stand placement and placement timing are a column all their own; we’re concerned with safety here.)

Check stands for worn straps or chains, rusted bolts and cables and any missing nuts or hardware. Most companies offer replacement parts for stands, allowing you to do any needed maintenance to keep you safe. 

Go over your safety harness and safety ropes, inspecting for worn, nicked or frayed areas. Check clips and carabiners, too, to make sure they open and close correctly and aren’t bent or dented. Lubricate any moving joints on stands and other equipment so they will operate quietly while hunting and to give any lingering odors time to dissipate before season. If a squeak got you busted last year, the value of this will not escape you.

Besides eliminating the worry and stress of rushing to get everything together at crunch time, knowing your gear is ready to go frees up your fall for important things like scouting, hanging stands and running trail cameras. As your hunting buddies rush frantically from store to store trying to locate everything they need for the upcoming season, you’ll be kicking back, making a game plan for getting in close to a big buck.

But here’s the deal: ATVs are motorized, and with that comes important safety rules you need to follow.  

According to the Consumer Protection Safety Commission, in 2015, there were 97,200 injuries related to riding ATVs—28 percent involved kids under 16 years-old. Here are some smart tips from seasoned riders, to ensure that you and your family members have the best ATV experience possible.

For one thing, kids should not be placed upon some big honking device—there are ATVs specifically sized for younger riders, so look into them. Engine CCs of up to 70 are good for kids aged 11 and under. 250 CCs and up work for intermediate/advanced riders. Rule of thumb: When it comes to engine size, it’s better to go too small versus too big (and always keep an eye on kids under 16 years of age).

Sure, ATVs look easy to drive, but because they’re motorized vehicles, any and everyone who plans to board one should take a basic course in how to drive them. It’s just good sense, so do not skip this important step! 

Whether you rent or buy your ATV, review the owner’s manual to get the skinny on how it works.

Meaning, check fluid levels (gas, oil, coolant), chains, air filter, and tire pressure before you get started. There are many riders who just want to hop on and take off—only to be stranded later by something as simple as an empty gas tank.  

Whether you’re renting or have just bought a new ATV, the default position will be different from yours. Take a moment to adjust handlebars, clutch, and any levers to make them “yours.”

Even in warmer months, there are some non-negotiables when it comes to ATV gear. Most importantly, a helmet. ATVs are meant to go over some dodgy terrain, and the possibility of being knocked off—and out—is a real thing. For that reason alone, a helmet is essential.  Other important pieces of gear include gloves, boots that go over your ankle, long pants and long-sleeved shirt, a chest protector, and goggles. Face it, the trail kicks up lots of unexpected “surprises,” like a pothole or big branch, so take no chances. It’s not worth it.

Sure, the ATV goes “vroom vroom”—and it may be tempting to race the motor, and pop a wheelie. But that’s a fast way to hurting yourself. It’s a fact that more folks are injured riding ATVs than in any other outdoor sport, so be responsible.

Remember those potholes and errant branches? Even wearing safety gear, you could still wind up in serious trouble. Always take someone with you when riding. But never put someone on the back of a single-rider ATV.

Probably my favorite weekend of the year with these guys!

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Seriously. Just don’t! 

There’s a reason “terrain” is part of the name: off-road is where they’re meant to be used. On that same note, don’t cross over onto private property, and be respectful of environmentally-sensitive areas like dunes.

*Note: Age restrictions, special licenses, and other requirements for off highway vehicles vary from state to state. Before heading out on your OHV, please consult your local regulations.