Keeping your eyes protected against glaring sun is super-important, especially in winter when sunlight bouncing off snow can be a real blinder. CAMP’s new limited-edition National Parks Collection of sunglasses keep you protected while celebrating four of our most iconic national parks—Arches, Joshua Tree, Glacier, and Crater Lake. Polarized, impact-resistant lenses decrease eye strain by reducing visible glare from snow while offering 100% protection from harmful UV-A and UB-V rays. And CAMP’s plant-based bio-plastic frames offer all the qualities of rugged nylon while reducing the amount of plastic used to make sunglasses. Best of all, with every purchase from the National Parks Collection, CAMP will donate 5% of sales to local non-profits working to support each of the four parks recognized in this collection.

Car campers will love the Approach rooftop tent from Thule, which maximizes interior space, giving you a great place to hang out or grab a comfortable night’s sleep. Winter campers can add the quilted insulator accessory (sold separately) to provide an additional layer of protection to make your Thule Approach a true four-season tent. Made for rugged adventures off the beaten path, this rooftop tent is equally great for local explorations or weekend getaways with family and friends. Transform your vehicle into a home away from home and live the van-life experience no matter what you drive—SUV, sedan, truck, or hatchback.

The new Convict Canyon 1/2 Zip Pullover Hoodie from Ridge Merino is constructed with Polartec® Power Wool™. Designed to offer a lightweight, super-warm mid-layer, this garment is perfect for backcountry campers who need to layer up against the cold. The grid construction of the fabric delivers incredible breathability and the material’s air pockets provide the warmth you need when you’re hanging out in camp and the breathability you want when hiking or climbing hard. Available in men’s and women’s designs, the Convict Canyon Pullover weighs about as much as a standard t-shirt and it compresses to take up almost no room in your pack or duffel.

Ideal for keeping your feet toasty warm on winter campouts, Ridge Merino’s lightweight Minaret Hiking Socks feature a light cushion that’s perfect for wearing around camp, out on the trail, or right at home. The 3/4 crew is designed to hit just above your hiking boot, so it’s the ideal height. And the 59% Merino Wool, 38% Nylon, 3% Spandex  blend offers perfect temperature regulation, moisture wicking, and odor resistance. Reinforced construction reduces wear and tear, increasing the longevity of the sock, while advanced knitting techniques create a totally flat toe seam that reduces bulk and prevents chafing. Put a pair of these on and you won’t want to take them off.

Compact, but full-featured, The Redstone knife from The James Brand packs a bunch of cool features in a small package that will fit perfectly into your winter camping gear duffel or pack. The knife’s “island design” concept allows your finger to rest “between the islands,” providing a superior grip. Available in straight or serrated-blade options, The Redstone features James’ TJB Slide-Lock design for secure lock-up and easy one-handed use, a 2 Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel blade for high corrosion resistance and great edge retention, and a bent-wire clip that’s the lightest and simplest clip possible.

Stand up to the most daunting winter weather with Stio’s Fernos Insulated Pants. This reliably warm and highly breathable insulation mid-layer laughs off sub-zero days with a Relance™ Primeflex shell and PeakFill™ Active Insulation. The medium cut is designed for winter camping, whether you’re hanging out in camp or chasing the kids up the trail. Stretch panels and full articulation allow for complete freedom of movement while thoughtful design details like an encased elastic waistband, zip fly, and drawcord make for easy on and off. Wear them under an outer layer or all on their own to experience insulated comfort you won't want to shed anytime soon.

Roark’s Hebrides Weatherproof Jacket is what you throw on when winter weather threatens. Warm, protective, and super sleek, the Hebrides features a recycled polyester ripstop shell made with a 10k/10k waterproof, breathable coating with Durable Water Repellent (DWR)  to bead up, then disperse, surface moisture. Primaloft 40gm insulation provides warmth and the quilted lining and high-pile fleece collar look and feel great. Snap front and pocket closures, handwarmer pockets, reinforced elbow panels, and snap cuffs round out the features of this classic overshirt.

The French figured out how to make great coffee a long time ago. Now you can bring a little taste of France into your winter camp with this 32-ounce Insulated French Press  from Hydro Flask. TempShield® insulation keeps your brew at just the right temperature for hours so you can enjoy a perfect morning in camp without having to worry about your coffee getting cold. The mesh filter strains out all fine particles perfectly so there is no grittiness and the Press-In Lid allows for non-directional pouring. Pair the French press with one of Hydro Flask’s insulated cups or bottles and you can take your favorite brew on the trail with you, too

Looking for a great boot to keep your feet warm in camp this season? Forsake’s Whitetail Mid boot for men is waterproof, warm, rugged, and ready for anything Mother Nature may throw your way. The molded rubber on the heel and toe offer protection from the elements, while a waterproof membrane, Thinsulate® insulation, and taped seams keep your feet dry and cozy— even in the harshest conditions. Underfoot, the GlacialGrip rubber outsole makes this sneaker boot a winter powerhouse whether you’re far into the backcountry or just heading out to shovel the driveway. Women will want to check out the Rosie Winter Waterproof Outdoor Sneaker Boot that’s loaded with many of the same features to keep you comfortable whether it’s crisp and cold or wet and snowy.

Camping in a winter wonderland can be a blast, but not when you’re shivering cold. Slip on a pair of Jetty’s York lined pants and enjoy warm, all-day comfort. These 100% polyester knit pants are similar to Jetty’s Acadia design, but they feature an extra layer of Oystex to keep you feeling great, even on the chilliest days. Other features include a hidable drawstring, hip cell phone pocket, and 4-way stretch comfort, so you can lounge in camp or head straight out onto the trail in comfort.

Before you head afield, however, you have to accept that things are in a state of flux in the deer woods during mid-October. Food sources are changing in a way that will dictate where the most deer activity will occur, and the accumulated pressure of bowhunters, small-game hunters, and upland hunters in the field will likely affect your local deer herds’ patterns.

This means that October demands a different bowhunting strategy than you used in September. Besides, you shouldn’t push a dead program just because it worked a few weeks ago or might work again in a few weeks when the rut threatens to bust loose. Here are four proven ways to beat the dreaded October Lull.

Depending on where you live, by mid-October, soybeans and cornfields are being picked, acorns are dropping or have already dropped and been vacuumed up, and the general browse options are disappearing. Deer need to fill their bellies now with as high-quality nutrition as they can find, and those options are becoming more limited by the day. 

The reality is, coupled with deer having a more heightened awareness during this time. more two-legged predators will be in the woods now than they have been for months. All of this may paint a gloomy bowhunting picture, but it really should just inform us that we have to make in-the-moment decisions on where to spend our valuable stand time.

There is no better place to sit right now than on a staging area located just off of a destination food source, or a site that is located on an in-cover destination food source like a stand of white oaks that are littering the forest floor with acorns every time the wind blows. The thing about staging areas is that they will be located in the cover, and they’ll require you to scout or observe carefully. If you try to run a camera to locate them, you’ll probably miss the boat.

You have to take a walk into the thick stuff and keep an eye out for sign, or employ a hang-and-hunt strategy that allows you the chance to observe deer movement in the cover. If you do see some deer killing time in the brush, move in as soon as the conditions allow.

Throughout this process of trying to identify current deer activity, keep an eye out for scrapes as well. There is something about mid-October that draws bucks to scrapes, especially those that are located well off of the field edges and deep in the cover. If you want to hedge your bets for killer sits this time of year, locate some fresh scrapes well into the cover that are located near - but not on - a hot food source.

The thing about a strategy like this is that you won’t get it right every time. You’ll blank on plenty of sits while trying to lay eyes on an October buck doing his thing. That’s okay, because every sit on which you don’t see a deer is one that helps you eliminate dead woods.

Keep moving, and keep looking for fresh sign. This is important for all bowhunters, but it’s crucial for anyone hunting public land. In fact, those hunting public land might have a better chance at a mid-October buck than anyone else due to the fact that there will undoubtedly be an ebb in the hunting pressure when most bowhunters believe the lull is happening.

Even though the woods and the world of whitetails are in flux right now, meaning it may feel like a gamble to sit at all, here’s the thing: you can hedge your bets by being a disciple of the weather. Follow the hourly and daily forecasts for your hunting area and pay attention to the swings as fronts move through.

If unseasonably warm weather is forecast, get out now or wait to hunt until things level off. If a cold front is coming, which will bring north and west winds most of the time, it’s a good idea to plan some time in stand. The buck that usually wouldn’t start meandering to the nearby soybean field until right at dark will often get moving a little earlier if the temperature has suddenly dropped by 10 or 15 degrees in the span of a day or two. This goes for Halloween, of course, but also for the first week of October when the hunting is not supposed to be any good.

October isn’t November, but it isn’t a whitetail write-off month, either. The deer are out there, sussing out new food sources and changing their patterns due to hunting pressure. This means you have to figure out what they are doing right now, which takes a bit of hunter’s discipline and a strategy to watch over some new ground until the local herd tips you off about their whereabouts.

This means getting your base pack weight down to somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 to 20 pounds, while packing smart to bring the items to keep you safe and comfortable at the same time.

But getting started with ultralight hiking can be a bit daunting, making it difficult to know what you should and shouldn’t bring with you on a backpacking excursion. If you’ve been looking for ways to dip your toe in the ultralight pond, we have 10 tips that can help you get started. 

One of the first things you should do when looking to cut excess weight from your pack is to evaluate everything that you’re bringing with you. Chances are there are some items that you don’t actually need that are just taking up space and adding ounces.

For instance, one set of clothes that function as a good layering system is all that you really need to stay comfortable on the trail. It may be nice to have something clean to put on every day, but if you want to travel faster and lighter, that is a luxury you’ll have to learn to do without. 

When selecting the gear that you want to take with you, break out the scale and check to see just how much everything weighs. You may discover that items you thought were lightweight are actually heavier than you imagined. You’ll also gain a better sense of what is contributing to your overall pack weight, too.

A good backpack is essential to any hiking excursion, but if your pack is more than a couple of years old, or hasn’t been specifically designed to go ultralight, it probably weighs more than it should.

These days, a lightweight pack often tips the scales at less than two pounds, which is substantially lighter than most other bags on the market. For instance, Hyperlight Mountain Gear’s 2400 Southwest model weighs just 1.9 pounds and offers 40-liters of carrying capacity, making it a great choice for nearly any adventure.

Osprey’s Levity line (for men) and Lumina Line (for women) of ultralite packs is also an excellent option to consider.

Tents made of all mesh have replaced traditional shelters for many lightweight hikers, but there are several other options to consider as well. For instance, a lot of ultra-lighters prefer to use a simple tarp to keep wind and rain at bay, while others have taken to using hammocks instead.

With a weight of just 5.8 ounces, the ENO Sub6 is a popular option for hammock campers, while the Zpacks Hexamid Pocket Tarp is even lighter at 3.4 ounces. 

Rather than bringing a sleeping bag for the worst conditions that you could encounter, bring one that is designed for use in the conditions you are most likely to be camping in. That bag will naturally be smaller and lighter, but still comfortable. Should an unexpected cold snap hit, bundle up in some extra layers for added warmth.

Traditionally, hikers have worn rugged boots to keep their feet well protected on the trail, and while those shoes have gotten lighter over the years, they still tend to be heavier than what ultralight backpackers need.

Instead, consider switching to a pair of trail running shoes, which still offer plenty of protection and stability while also managing to cut a serious amount of weight. Altra’s Lone Peak 3.5 is a popular option that doesn’t compromise support while still weighing just 12.5 ounces.

While hydration reservoirs and Nalgene bottles are usually standard equipment on most hiking trips, they do add extra weight to your pack. A disposable 1-liter water bottle is inexpensive, refillable, weighs less than 6 ounces, and offers plenty of capacity to keep you hydrated on the trail. When you return home, simply recycle it.

Gear that can serve more than one purpose can save weight and make you more efficient. For instance, trekking poles are not only good for maintaining balance on tricky trails, but they can also serve as poles for your shelter, too.

Similarly, a Buff can be used as a hat, headband, balaclava, or even a scarf, while a multitool, like Leatherman’s Signal, can serve numerous functions, too. The more versatile a piece of gear is the more likely you’ll want to carry it. 

Buying new lightweight gear isn’t always an option, but you can modify your existing gear to save some weight. For example, remove excesses belts, straps, and buckles from your backpack to shave ounces or leave tent stakes at home in favor of a free-standing shelter instead.

Ultralight backpackers will go to great lengths to remove unnecessary weight, including cutting the handle off their toothbrush, crafting a stove from a cat food can, and taking a first aid kit with only the bare minimum of items. 

A smartphone can be incredibly useful on the trail, serving as a GPS device, camera, and entertainment center. But mobile phones and other electronic gadgets also require power to keep them working, otherwise they just become dead weight. That means you’ll also need to carry a battery pack, solar panel, or some other method for keeping the device charged in the backcountry. 

All of these items add extra weight to your pack that you don’t necessarily need. Besides, part of the reason we go into the wilderness is to escape those devices in the first place. 

Before you even start packing your backpack, the very first thing you’ll want to do is organize the gear that you’ll be taking with you on the trip.

Start by laying it all out on the floor to get a sense of everything you plan to bring along. This gives you the opportunity to take a quick inventory of your equipment and identify the things that might be missing from the collection, not to mention the items that aren’t necessary for that particular outing. It is also a good way to assess whether or not your backpack has the capacity to haul everything you want to take with you.

Once you’ve collected all of the gear that you’ll be using on your trip, the next step is to start putting all of it inside your pack.

Naturally that means starting at the bottom, where you’ll place the items that you’ll least likely need to access throughout the day or when you first arrive at camp that night. Those items generally include the following:

• Sleeping bag
• Extra camp shoes
• Any layers of clothing that you aren’t likely to need on the trail that day. 

To get started:

A. First place your sleeping bag at the very bottom of the pack. This helps give the bag some shape and provides a soft cushion where the pack rests against your lower back.

B. If you’re bringing an extra pair of shoes, place them on top of the sleeping bag.

C. Then stuff your additional layers of clothing on or around the shoes to help hold everything securely in place.

The middle section of your backpack is where you want to store heavier items that you won’t necessarily need while hiking.

This creates a good center of gravity, helping you to maintain your sense of balance on the trail, even while scrambling over rocks or up and down rough terrain. If bulky items are too close to the bottom they can cause the backpack to hang lower than it should, potentially causing discomfort. If those items are placed near the top, they can alter the center of gravity, creating instability. They would also just be in the way when trying to access items that need to be more readily available.

The gear that you’ll want to stash in the core section of your pack includes your:

• Tent
• Camp stove
• Cooking pots
• Any food that you won’t need throughout the day.
• It is also a good place to store extra clothing, fuel canisters, and a bear canister (for storing food) if one is required where you’ll be camping.

Finally, you’ll top off your backpack with the items that you’re most likely need to access during the day, as well as the things you’ll want close at hand should an emergency arise.

For example, if it starts to rain, you’ll want to be able to grab your rain gear as quickly as possible, so having a waterproof jacket in an easily accessible place is a good idea. The top of the pack is also a good place to stash your lunch, too, as you’re likely to stop somewhere along the way for a quick meal.

Other items that should be packed close to the top include:

• An insulated jacket
• First aid kit
• Any toilet supplies 

The top of your pack is also the perfect location for your headlamp, extra snacks, and a water filter, as those are important items you may need to grab while en route from one campsite to the next.

With the inside of your pack quickly filling up, you’ll find extra storage space outside of the bag to be a handy place to store smaller items. For instance, most packs have gear straps at the bottom that are perfect for attaching a sleeping pad. Lashing points are good for holding trekking poles and ice axes, or attaching a GPS device or compass via a lanyard for easy access.

External pockets are designed for holding tent poles, a water bottle, or a pair of shoes. A lightweight solar panel can even be connected to the pack for charging small electronics while you’re on the go.

Most backpacks have hip belts equipped with small zippered pockets, too. These are handy for keeping energy bars, a camera, or a smartphone within easy reach.

Once you’ve securely loaded all of the gear in your pack and made sure your footwear is in order, you’ll be ready to hit the trail. By following these guidelines, the weight load should be well distributed, and all of your equipment should be organized, too. This will make hiking with a full pack much more enjoyable and keep things simple when arriving at your campsite at the end of the day.

Every good layering system is made up of three distinct parts, each of which plays a vital role in keeping us warm when the mercury drops. Those parts consist of the base layer, the insulating layer, and the outer shell. When paired with one another properly, these layers can be surprisingly warm and versatile, allowing you to add or remove layers as needed depending on shifting conditions.

Maintaining temperature control and staying dry are vital to staying warm and safe in cold weather. That starts with a proper base layer, which is comprised of the articles of clothing that sit closest to the skin. A good base layer is tasked with wicking away moisture, while remaining breathable enough to allow heat to escape as well. In order to do that, these garments need to be fairly form fitting, although they shouldn’t be so tight that they restrict motion in any way.

The insulating layer is the piece of clothing whose job it is to collect body heat as it escapes from the base layer, creating warm pockets of air that can keep us comfortable in cold weather over extended periods of time. This layer is designed to keep warm air in and cold air out, while still allowing moisture to escape. This means it must have a high level of breathability to go along with its thermal properties. 

Which Layers Should You Buy?

Photograph by Kraig Becker

Selecting the proper products to incorporate into your own layering system can be a challenge, as there are, literally, dozens of options to choose from these days. But we’ve sorted through many different products to come up with some suggestions of items that should be on your short list, whether you’re on a tight budget or have a little extra cash to spare.

Budget Layering Options

Blending performance and savings, these layers offer a lot of bang for your buck. For the price, it is tough to beat any of these products, which won’t put too much of a dent in your wallet, while still managing to keep you warm this winter.

Base Layers: Cabela’s ECWCS Polar Weight Hoodie Top - $69.99
Cabela’s ECWCS Medium Weight Bottom - $59.99

Insulating Layer: Sierra Designs Sierra DriDown Jacket - $159.00

Outer Shell: Eddie Bauer Cloud Cap Rain Jacket - $99.00

Total Cost: $387.98

Premium Performance Layering Options

These layers are among the best that money can buy, providing top-of-the-line performance, durability, and technical fabrics. If your budget allows it, and you need to stay warm in the harshest conditions, these are the garments you’ll want with you.

Base Layers: Icebreaker Bodyfitzone 200 Long Sleeve 1/2 Zip - $120
Icebreaker Bodyfitzone 200 Leggings - $110

Insulating Layer: Arc’Teryx Cerium LT hoody - $379

Outer Shell: Outdoor Research Interstellar Jacket - $299

Total Cost: $908

Finally, the outer shell is a lighter, thinner layer that is focused on providing protection from the elements. These jackets serve as the first line of defense from the weather, keeping wind, snow, and rain at bay. And while they don’t generate a lot of heat on their own, they help us to maintain warmth by keeping our inner layers dry while once again allowing moisture to escape.

My dad had bought me the rifle for my 15th birthday and gave me a couple boxes of 170-grain Remington Core-Lokt cartridges, along with a couple of boxes of Winchester Silvertip 170-grain cartridges. “Keep those Silvertips for when we go bear hunting up in the Catskills,” he told me. “They penetrate better than normal bullets.”

He was correct in his evaluation of the ammo of that time. The Winchester Silvertips were considered a premium bullet, with an aluminum-alloy tip that helped control expansion, which resulted in deeper penetration. Now, that’s not to say that the Silvertip was a poor choice for the deer hunter, but it might have been a bit more than what was needed. 

That was 30-something years ago. Today there is a mind-boggling number of cartridges and bullets to choose from when it comes to deer hunting. So, let’s talk about what makes a good deer bullet, examining a number of different hunting scenarios, so you can best choose the bullet which will suit your hunting needs. 

The whitetail deer, along with the feral hog, is hunted with a wide and diverse selection of cartridges, bullets and bullet weights. I know hunters who don’t have an opportunity to take a shot longer than 80 or 90 yards, yet insist on using a .300 Weatherby Magnum, and I know guys who will take 250-yard shots across open fields with cartridges as small as the .22-250 Remington. I feel the answer to the “best bullet” question might be somewhere in the middle of those two extremes. 

A deer isn’t hard to kill, providing you destroy his vital organs. A heavy bullet that doesn’t hit the vitals is useless, and an animal thus struck is going to travel a considerable distance before going down, if it goes down at all. While a lighter bullet that destroys vital tissue can work just fine, then, if the bullet is too light or constructed poorly, it may fail to do sufficient damage. Premature expansion can result in poor penetration, and too little expansion—while giving fantastic penetration—doesn’t do enough damage to the vitals to result in a quick death. Understanding this, then, what you’re after is that balance of expansion and penetration. 

Classic softpoint bullets like the Remington Core-Lokt, Winchester Power Point, Speer Hot-Cor and others, when of suitable weight—say, the middle of the range to the heavier end of the spectrum for a particular and appropriate caliber—work just fine at standard velocities. Beef those velocities to that of the magnum cartridges, however, and you’ll begin to see premature expansion and a whole lot of bloodshot meat. 

These projectiles are of standard cup-and-core construction, a copper jacket around a lead core. John Nosler had an issue with this construction when hunting bull moose with a .300 H&H Magnum in the late 1940s, and that experience was the impetus for the famous Nosler Partition, which uses two lead cores separated by a partition of copper jacket material. That design gave birth to the premium bullet industry. The Partition remains a staple in the industry, as the front core is soft enough to give good expansion, yet the bullet holds together well enough to penetrate a deer from any angle. I like to use them in bear country, when the odds of seeing a bear or deer are equal. 

Another option for controlling expansion is to use a thicker copper jacket. This results in better resistance to bullet breakup. Sierra Bullets have long been popular among handloaders for their accuracy and their construction. Sierra offers many designs, including cup-and-core bullets with thicker jackets, which give great performance on any deer. Federal began to load Sierra’s bullets in its Premium line in the 1970s and continues to do so to this day. One of my all-time favorite deer bullets is Sierra’s 165-grain .30-caliber hollowpoint boattail. It’s seriously accurate, opens quickly to transfer energy and has a thick jacket so that premature breakup isn’t an issue. 

There are a good many polymer-tipped bullets on the market today. That design was pioneered by Nosler in its Ballistic Tip bullet, and it makes a sound choice for deer hunting. That tip acts as a wedge to initiate expansion upon impact; Hornady’s SST and ELD X and the Browning’s BXR have a similar design. But, as with a standard cup-and-core bullet, too much velocity upon impact causes these bullets to expand too quickly, resulting in poor penetration. A modern solution for today’s faster cartridges has been to chemically bond the copper jacket to the lead core, resulting in controlled expansion. I like these polymer-tipped bonded bullets in magnum cartridges, where impact velocities can be high, and in lighter cartridges where reaching the vital organs can be a concern. I also prefer them in standard cartridges in those instances where a light-for-caliber is chosen. My 7mm-08 Remington likes the 140-grain Nosler AccuBond load from Federal, and it works wonderfully on deer of any size. 

While it doesn’t use a polymer tip, Federal’s Fusion has a bonded core and is another great choice for deer of any species. They are both accurate and affordable, and I have really come to enjoy the entire Fusion line. It doesn’t have a ballistic coefficient value that’s off the charts, thanks to its flat base and a bit of a blunt nose, but at average hunting distances it’s a great choice. 

A final consideration are the monometal bullets comprised of copper or a copper alloy. The beauty of their design is that there is no core or jacket to separate, and they usually have a hollowpoint or a polymer tip to ensure the bullet expands upon impact. Barnes Bullets pioneered the design, but these days many companies offer a monometal bullet, including Hornady’s GMX, Federal’s Trophy Copper and Nosler’s E-Tip.

Like I said, there are many choices available for today’s deer hunter, whether he’s hunting these wonderful animals in the thick cover of the Northeast’s hardwood forests or the wide-open expanses of Midwest agriculture. What you ultimately want with the cartridge you choose for your hunting situation is a bullet that provides rapid energy transfer. Be sure your bullet has either enough weight or a construction strong enough to reliably reach the vital organs from any angle, and you’ll be a happy hunter. 

About the Author: Phil Massaro is a freelance author and editor-in-chief of Gun Digest Annual. He is happiest hunting the wildest places left on earth.

The advantages of camping by canoe are many, but chief among them is ease of travel. You are not carrying your gear on your back. Instead, it is gliding along in your canoe! This is relatively easy if you are heading down a river, or even paddling across a lake, especially compared to backpacking your load uphill.

Carrying such conveniences as an ice chest, a large tent, a table and chairs or a two-burner stove is easy with a canoe. You are only limited by how much weight your canoe will safely transport. Extravagant lodging, meals, and even oyster roasts are possible on a canoe journey! 

Canoeing is also a quiet way to travel, and you are likely to experience an abundance of wildlife such as eagles, otters, ducks, muskrats, deer, and other fauna, depending on your locale. Remote areas become within reach, giving you and your family a level of solitude not afforded by many public areas. 

Some canoes are better suited to canoe camping than others. While some are mainly built for day trips on whitewater, others are wide in the middle, flatter on the bottom and capable of carrying great loads. However, many types of canoes and kayaks can be utilized for weekend canoe camping. Check the weight capacity and evaluate your particular craft for safety and stability, especially when loaded with gear. 

Safety is key, especially when traveling on the water with family or friends. Always heed laws pertaining to safe boating. Have enough paddles, lifejackets, a noisemaker such as a whistle, or any other gear necessary for the safety of your passengers. 

A boater safety course will pay great dividends. Take the lessons you learn there to heart—they could save your life or those of your loved ones. When doing any kind of camping, it is always important to have a plan. Planning greatly reduces the chance of unexpected emergencies. Be sure to identify campsites and if they aren’t public, seek prior approval of landowners on whose property you are camping. The last thing anyone wants is to be chased off, or worse, arrested for trespassing. Let friends and family know exactly where you will be going and when you plan to return.

Learn how your canoe will respond under a load by practicing close to home. When loading your canoe, keep the load low and in the center of your canoe. Gear must be lashed in so that it doesn’t shift. Insure that if the canoe turns over, the gear will stay with the boat. Run lashing ropes through the handles of bags and other containers and tie them off so that they won’t become separated from the canoe in the event of tipping over. 

Your campsite should be chosen carefully. Be aware of the possibility of flash floods, and of fluctuating water levels when camping on lakes and rivers. Seek high ground for your campsite and avoid the possibility of your camp being flooded. 

When traveling on the water, you’ll need a way to keep gear like sleeping bags, stoves, and extra clothes clean and dry. If packs are to be used, they can be lined with waterproof liners and tied shut. Don’t use garbage bags. If submerged, they will allow water to soak your gear. Instead, use dry bags or other waterproof containers made specifically for use in boats. You may also want to cover your dunnage with a tarp.

Aside from a way to keep everything dry, gear for canoe camping can be the same as other camping gear. As alluded to earlier, because the canoe is doing the work, you can haul heavier loads including things like coolers, kitchen equipment, cots, and other items that would be considered impractical luxuries when backpacking. If your expedition includes more than one canoe, the sky’s the limit!

Canoe camping is the perfect family activity! Fall days on a lake or river could include time spent fishing, hunting, observing wildlife or just paddling and enjoying the scenery. Imagine ending your day enjoying a steak dinner complete with dessert and ice cold drinks! Enjoy your time on the water in style!

Fortunately, there are now a number of great solutions available for charging our electronic equipment while on the go. So, whether you’re heading out for just the day or for weeks at a time, these are the best ways to prevent your devices from running out of juice and becoming nothing more than dead weight in your pack.

Even if you’re just going out for day hike, it is always a good idea to take a portable battery pack with you just in case. Sometimes you find yourself hiking for far longer than you expected and the last thing you want is for your smartphone or rechargeable headlamp to die on you just when you need it most.

There are literally dozens of compact battery packs to choose from, but if you’re going to be spending a considerable amount of time in the outdoors, you’ll want one that is rugged and built to withstand the elements. 

Lifeproof’s LifeActive Power Pack ($79.99) fits that description nicely, offering enough power to recharge an iPhone more than three times and featuring a durable case that is both water and drop-proof. The LifeActive includes a quick-charging USB port for rapid refills and bright LED lights that allow it to be used as a flashlight or emergency flasher, too. 

If you are camping or traveling for a few days at a time, a higher capacity battery pack is likely in order. On longer getaways you’re more likely to be carrying extra electronic gear with you, such as a camera, GPS device, or Bluetooth speaker. You’ll also need to keep your smartphone running for extended periods of time too, which can be a challenge in and of itself. 

The RAVPower Exclusives Solar Power Bank ($52.99) stores enough energy to recharge a smartphone as many as ten times and it comes with a built-in flashlight too. It is also dust, drop, and waterproof, has multiple USB in and out ports for rapid recharging, and is equipped with its own solar panel to help keep its internal battery topped off as well.

An extended camping trip lasting a week or longer could involve a considerable amount of electronic gear. Not only will smartphones, cameras, and GPS devices be a part of the mix, but tablets, laptops, and even drones may come along for the journey too.

In those circumstances, you’ll need a much larger power source, typically moving away from compact battery packs in favor of portable power stations instead. What these devices lack in portability they make up for with batteries that are much higher in capacity. They’ll also offer more options when it comes to charging ports too.

The Jackery Explorer 240 ($230) is a great choice when choosing this type of portable power station, bringing a nice mix of size, capacity, and charging options. With 240 watt-hour of battery life it can recharge an iPhone more than 15 times, or a laptop as many as 2-4 times.

And since it features an AC wall outlet built right in, it can be used to power just about anything, from LCD televisions to small appliances. It also includes two quick-charging USB ports and a 12-volt DC port too. On top; of that, it can even be recharged in the field using Jackery’s 50-watt solar panel. 

For those who spend extended periods of time in the backcountry and need power in a base camp setting, a larger power station is likely in order. Not only will you need more capacity, you’ll definitely want more charging ports and outlets too.

Compatibility with a solar panel is a must too since you’ll need a way to recharge the power station over an extended period of time. With the right set-up, you could theoretically stay off the grid indefinitely and keep your electronic gear charged the entire time. 

For these long-term needs, Goal Zero’s Yeti 1000 Lithium is the perfect choice. Not only does it offer more than 1000-watt hours of power, but it includes two AC wall outlets, a 12-volt DC port, and four USB ports, all in a package that weighs just 40 pounds. It is also compatible with the company’s Boulder 100-watt portable solar panel for convenient charging anywhere. 

So, come along on a virtual hike and enjoy fall foraging. Our adventure takes place in the Northwest, but you can apply all of the foraging rules you learn here to wherever you live. I promise that when you give foraging a try, the thrill of the hunt will entertain you, whether you end up with a hearty supply of berries, mushrooms, nuts, and fruit…or don’t have much luck.

Note: Many wild edibles have toxic and even deadly look-alikes and you could eat the wrong thing. It takes a good amount of research and actual field work to know your mycology and herbology before you can just start picking wild edibles and eating them. Always do your research before setting out.

Elderberries: Elderberry harvest season is fairly short, from mid-August to mid-September, depending upon your region (this is certainly the season near my home in Southern Oregon). These tiny berries grow in clusters that are a bear to pick, but they are well worth the effort!

Best used for: make an elderberry jam to spread on toast all winter long.

Blackberries: Depending on where you live in the Northwest, some blackberry harvests will be at the very end of August, but at higher elevations, the season can extend into fall. Look for thorny blackberry bushes near streams, or climbing up the sides of remote fences (be sure to ask permission before foraging on private property). Bring sturdy hiking boots and protective clothing, as scratches are a guarantee if your skin is exposed while picking.

Best used for: freezing to use in smoothies and in muffins.

Wild apples: Sometimes called crabapples, wild apples grow in abundance in Washington State, but you can find them in many other states as well. You never quite know what you’re going to get with wild apples, which can range from sweet to barely editable. The key is to get to them before the wild birds do.

Best used for: pie baking and apple cobbler making.

Juniper Berries: aren’t actually berries at all, but rather a type of pine cone found east of the Cascade range, for the most part. I’ve found them in Central Oregon, and I know that some Oregon distilleries use local juniper berries in their wares.

Best used for: tea and…you guessed it…gin! Make your own infused winter gin! Find juniper berries east of the Cascades range. I’ve found them in central Oregon.

Mountain Huckleberries: Found in the northern part of the Pacific Northwest, huckleberries are in abundance in mid-summer. In early fall, you’ll still see their close cousin, the Mountain Huckleberry, at higher elevation in Northern Idaho, Washington State, and British Columbia (among other locales). Look for them along hiking trails near the treeline.

Best used for: huckleberries make a great addition to a vanilla ice cream shake, or on top of pancakes. Fold huckleberries into just about any baked goods, actually.

Dulse – This red-hued seaweed is common throughout the Pacific Northwest shorelines and is among the tastiest. If you live near a coast, harvest Dulse by removing only parts of the clump, for conservation’s sake, and always wash three times or more in cold water before using. You can also harvest kelp (particularly forest kelp), throughout coastal Pacific Northwest.

Best used for: add to soups or atop salads.

Oyster mushrooms: In western Washington, oyster mushrooms are often found growing on dead or dying alders. On the east side of the Cascade Range, you will more often see oyster mushrooms on dead or dying cottonwood trees. The key to finding them: look on downed logs.

Best used for: sautée in garlic and butter, or make a risotto.

Golden chanterelle mushrooms: Chanterelles grow in conifer and oak forests (think lower elevations). You’ll need to look in an area with mossy growth under your boots. They’ll be growing through October, so they’re great to forage after the spring morel season is over. Look for mushrooms with a funnel shape, that have a solid stem. They’ll grow in groups and near trees. Note: Jack-o-Lantern mushrooms are toxic, and grow where there might not be trees.

Best used for: soups and stews.

The California King Bolete mushroom: this mushroom grows in the woods in California and Oregon. You won’t find them near trees, and they are distinct by their sponge-like tubed surface on the underside of their cap. These bad boys can get very large, and can be foraged in September, October and November.

Best used for: any recipe that calls for a ‘meaty’ mushroom; grill them like steaks!

Live outside the Northwest? I’ve picked early fall blueberries galore in Maine, and have heard tell of wild ramps in West Virginia, wild ginger in Tennessee, and maple for syrup-making in all parts of New England. No matter where you live, a great resource for foraging in any state is the Cooperative Extension. Local garden shops and master gardener programs are also great starting points. Let us know what kinds of things you forage for by adding your tips to the comments section below.

Remember, never, ever forage and eat anything without being 100-percent certain of its identity as a safe plant to consume.

Add your foraging resource suggestions to the comments section below.

But here’s the deal: ATVs are motorized, and with that comes important safety rules you need to follow.  

According to the Consumer Protection Safety Commission, in 2015, there were 97,200 injuries related to riding ATVs—28 percent involved kids under 16 years-old. Here are some smart tips from seasoned riders, to ensure that you and your family members have the best ATV experience possible.

For one thing, kids should not be placed upon some big honking device—there are ATVs specifically sized for younger riders, so look into them. Engine CCs of up to 70 are good for kids aged 11 and under. 250 CCs and up work for intermediate/advanced riders. Rule of thumb: When it comes to engine size, it’s better to go too small versus too big (and always keep an eye on kids under 16 years of age).

Sure, ATVs look easy to drive, but because they’re motorized vehicles, any and everyone who plans to board one should take a basic course in how to drive them. It’s just good sense, so do not skip this important step! 

Whether you rent or buy your ATV, review the owner’s manual to get the skinny on how it works.

Meaning, check fluid levels (gas, oil, coolant), chains, air filter, and tire pressure before you get started. There are many riders who just want to hop on and take off—only to be stranded later by something as simple as an empty gas tank.  

Whether you’re renting or have just bought a new ATV, the default position will be different from yours. Take a moment to adjust handlebars, clutch, and any levers to make them “yours.”

Even in warmer months, there are some non-negotiables when it comes to ATV gear. Most importantly, a helmet. ATVs are meant to go over some dodgy terrain, and the possibility of being knocked off—and out—is a real thing. For that reason alone, a helmet is essential.  Other important pieces of gear include gloves, boots that go over your ankle, long pants and long-sleeved shirt, a chest protector, and goggles. Face it, the trail kicks up lots of unexpected “surprises,” like a pothole or big branch, so take no chances. It’s not worth it.

Sure, the ATV goes “vroom vroom”—and it may be tempting to race the motor, and pop a wheelie. But that’s a fast way to hurting yourself. It’s a fact that more folks are injured riding ATVs than in any other outdoor sport, so be responsible.

Remember those potholes and errant branches? Even wearing safety gear, you could still wind up in serious trouble. Always take someone with you when riding. But never put someone on the back of a single-rider ATV.

Probably my favorite weekend of the year with these guys!

A post shared by Nick Moses (@nmoses166) on Oct 9, 2016 at 8:32pm PDT

Seriously. Just don’t! 

There’s a reason “terrain” is part of the name: off-road is where they’re meant to be used. On that same note, don’t cross over onto private property, and be respectful of environmentally-sensitive areas like dunes.

*Note: Age restrictions, special licenses, and other requirements for off highway vehicles vary from state to state. Before heading out on your OHV, please consult your local regulations.

Great meals start with fresh ingredients and today’s amazing assortment of coolers come in a variety of styles from sturdy chests that will keep food chilled for days to insulated cooler backpacks that are perfect for day hikes.

Car campers will want to take a look at the new wheeled coolers from RovR Products. Designed with rugged wheels and steel axles (you could literally portage one of these on a canoe trip), they are designed with separate compartments to keep your ice separate from food items so things stay cold without getting soggy. And they’re just the right height for carrying wine bottles to celebrate with friends once you’re in camp. Yeti also has a new wheeled cooler (the Roadie 32) that’s also wine bottle compatible and its 32-quart size fits easily in the trunk.

Day hikers will want to consider soft-sided backpack coolers from Yeti and Hydro Flask. These come in several sizes that are perfect for keeping salads and sandwiches fresh on a day hike yet they’re rugged enough to take on a canoe trek.

For stowing perishables and keeping dairy products from getting waterlogged, vacuum-sealed food packs from Klean Kanteen are just the ticket and they’re small enough to stash in a pack for day trips or overnights.

The Pro 14 stove from Camp Chef is perfect for car camping. It features two 30,000-BTU burners, matchless ignition, and a three-sided windscreen so you can boil a big pot of pasta water on one side and have room enough to whip up a tasty sauce from scratch on the other. And it all folds down into a compact unit that’s easy to stow.

Making pizza in camp has always been a challenge. You can do it on a hot rock, but it will take a lot of fire tending and hours to get your rock hot enough to crank out a nice crust. Ooni’s Koda 12 gas-powered pizza oven makes it easy. This compact unit reaches an amazing 950 F. in just 15 minutes. Simply roll out your dough, add your favorite toppings, and it will crank out perfect 12-inch pizzas in just 60 seconds.

Weight-conscious backpackers will want to consider GSI’s PINNACLE Dualist HS Complete. This all-in-one cook set comes complete with a high-efficiency backpack stove, cookpot, small pot, bowls, and utensils all of which nest together in the main pot for easy carrying. Total weight is just 9.6 ounces without the fuel cannister.

One of the big trends in camping gear is providing conveniences you would have in your home kitchen for use in camp. Gerber, a name synonymous with knives and multi-tools, has just introduced a whole new line of camp kitchen pots, pans, and utensils. Their new 16-piece ComplEAT Cook Set has everything you need to easily feed a group of hungry campers from pots and pans to tableware. And their new full-size camping griddle is made from carbon steel, giving you the same durable, nonstick qualities of cast iron without the weight.

This must be the year of the French press as there are several out there worth noting. Yeti has three new double-walled models including a whopper that holds an entire pot of coffee. And the plunger has a unique flap that keeps grounds separated from the coffee once it’s been pressed so it stays super-hot but doesn’t get bitter as the grounds are sealed off separately.

Backpackers will want to lean more toward the lighter weight French press from Hydro Flask. Want an ultra-light press? Look no further than GSI’s JavaPress that weighs in at a scant 10.2 ounces.

One item I never head to camp without is hot sauce. The compact makeup kits you find at the pharmacy have all sorts of cool little bottles that are perfect for carry tabasco, honey, and your favorite spices. GSIalso has a full range of small spice bottles and containers as well./p>

And for slicing and dicing, nothing beats Gerber’s ComplEAT Cutting Board Set that features two knives, a dual-sided cutting board, and a handy food storage container that everything nests into.

In cooler weather, keeping your feet warm and protected is crucial. Fall hiking doesn’t require all the insulation and warmth that winter boots offer, but you need a little more than your Chaco sandals out on the trail. A good, comfortable hiking boot or shoe, like the Targhee from Keen, will do the trick quite nicely. If you live in an area that tends to get a lot of precipitation in the fall, consider getting a waterproof version of the boot you choose.  

In many places, late fall temperatures can vary radically, sometimes within a few hours. So, when you head out on the trail, a jacket is a necessity. However, you’ll want an outer layer that breathes well and will keep you comfortable across a wide range of temperatures. A hood is also a nice thing to have in the event of unplanned precipitation. Patagonia’s Nanopuff Hoody is a good example of a jacket that checks all these boxes.

Do you really have to have specialized hiking pants in order to head out on the trail in the fall? No, probably not, but pants designed with the hiker in mind can help keep you comfortable and warm when you’re out there. Hiking pants tend to be tear-resistant and have a little bit of stretch to help you get over rough patches. Well-placed pockets and fast-drying materials, like you’d find in the Kühl Renegade are also features to look for in hiking pants. 

Another key clothing item for fall hiking is a pair of warm, comfortable hiking socks. You’ll want a sock that covers your ankles and offers plenty of support and cushioning for your feet, like the Darn Tough Full-Cushion Boot Sock. Also, look for socks that wick away or absorb moisture from your feet, or consider a pair of liners to wear inside your socks.

In colder weather, gloves are an excellent thing to have along on a hike. Not only do they keep your hands warm, the right pair will keep them dry and protect your hands if you’re using trekking poles or are on a trail that requires a lot of hand holds. The Trailsmith Gloves from REI are an example of extra-tough hiking gloves. Look around and find the right gloves for you.

A neck gaiter is a really awesome thing to have along on a cold weather hike. You can use it to keep your neck, ears and face warm if the wind picks up, and you can pull it down if the weather improves. They also make good impromptu face coverings when quickly passing other hikers on the trail. Columbia’s Trail Shaker is a solid gaiter for fall hiking.

A warm head makes for a happy hiker, and a warm hat will do the trick. When you’re out in biting weather, it’s nice to have built-in ear protection in a hat. Outdoor Research’s Peruvian Gore-Tex Infinium Hat is a good example of a hat that offers ear protection when you want it.

New England is world-renowned for its fall colors and visitor attractions, and Ride The Wilds has everything you need to see them from the seat of an ATV. Dedicated in 2013, this system has over 1,000 miles of interconnected trails in northern New Hampshire. Along the entire route, Ride The Wilds is connected to small towns that welcome ATV riders to enjoy their hospitality, fall festivals, and rider services, including food, fuel and lodging.

Ride The Wilds is popular with both novice and experienced riders. The terrain varies from easy-riding gravel roads and trails that wind their way through scenic woods and pastures, to routes for more experienced riders up into the mountains of New Hampshire, with many scenic stops for panoramic views of fall colors.

The Ride the Wilds website has many resources to help you plan your trip, including information on registering your vehicle or renting one, plus dining, shopping, attractions and lodging.

TrailsHeaven is the name of the website for Hatfield-McCoy Trails. And for good reason. This expansive, professionally managed trail system offers over 600 miles of trails for off-road enthusiasts of all skill levels. Riders trailer their vehicles here from across the country, knowing they will experience a wide variety of fun, scenic and sometimes challenging routes, with heavenly views of the mountains of southern West Virginia.

Hatfield-McCoy is actually seven different trail systems, all connected to ATV-friendly towns where riders can find great places to eat and shop, with generous doses of Southern hospitality. Trails range from the scenic mountain views of the Pinnacle Creek Trail, to the tight and twisting trails of the Bearwallow Trail. Bed & Breakfasts, cabins and campgrounds are plentiful, all welcoming ATV owners year-round.

The Hatfield-McCoy website takes you step-by-step through trip planning, including how to get a trail permit, choose the right trail for your experience level, find lodging to match your group size and budget…and more. 

Paul Bunyan is a giant of American folklore. Just south of Bemidji, Minnesota, site of the famous statue of Paul and Babe the Blue Ox, stands the giant of all ATV trail systems in the Midwest. The Round River Drive Trail : attracts ATV and dirt bike riders from across the state as well as neighboring states and Canadian provinces.

Here, they can ride up to 100 miles of signed and maintained trails, choosing easy-riding forest roads winding their way through pine forests, or narrow, twisting, rock-filled ATV trails designated as moderate to difficult. An additional 100 miles of single-track trails are open to off-highway motorcycles only.

The public trailhead features a large parking area that accommodates RVs and trailers, with a few spots for free camping, no reservations required. The Stompin' Grounds Campground and Lodge, located right off the trail on the southern end of Round River Drive, caters to day-trippers and week-enders, with free parking and a wash station, plus a bar and grill, and many reservable campsites. 

Riding the trails of Moab is unlike anything else in the country. This area of Utah has hundreds of miles of unique trails on “slickrock,” with breathtaking views of rock formations sculpted by the wind. Choose any of 30 trails, from easy-riding routes geared toward families new to the sport to difficult trails that challenge the technical skills of the most experienced riders.

There are many steep climbs and descents, with dramatic views of La Sal Mountains, Abyss Canyon, and the Colorado River. Want to ride but don’t own an ATV? There are adventure tour companies where you can rent a side-by-side ATV or 4-wheel drive truck and head out on your own or sign on to a guided trail ride of non-stop outdoor adventure. 

It’s official name is Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area. But everyone calls this open riding area of golden sand by the name of the local community: Glamis.

Located in the southeast corner of California and managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Glamis is the largest mass of sand dunes in the state. While you won’t find fall foliage here, in late fall, Glamis is a sight to see, for the variety of ATVs, side-by-sides and sand rails riding and racing each other, and the beauty of the dunes that reach heights of 300 feet above the desert floor. A note of trivia: these sand dunes were featured in the movies Star Wars and The Scorpion King.

The Glamis dunes stretch for 40 miles, with most of the riding activity in the area south of Highway 78. You’ll need to know the rules and regulations before riding there. Two “must-haves” are a riding permit and a tall safety flag, so other riders can see you coming over the top of a dune. Fall is a great time to get out to Glamis and enjoy a roller coaster ride on the sand. 

There is no one more qualified to advise a newcomer on the best locations, presentations and tackle choices than a knowledgeable resident. With their help, you should be able to find amazing fishing opportunities wherever you go, which is just what happened to me earlier this year when I traveled to Florida’s Space Coast with my family for vacation.

Here's how I was able to tap into local residents and resources to turn what might have been a busted fishing day into an angling adventure my twin girls will remember forever.

I’d packed one travel rod, a spinning reel, and a small assortment of lures for our trip. The day before I wanted to take my girls to a local beach to fish I’d even stopped in at a local tackle shop to get some much-needed advice. The shop owner was helpful and I left with some 3-ounce sinkers, pompano rigs, and a package of frozen shrimp.

These worked great and I caught a few fish right away, but my enthusiasm drained away the first evening as I watched the waves grow from manageable two-footers to well over my head in a matter of a few hours. I knew the fish I’d found staging on a sandy shelf were going to be within reach, but impossible to work with my setup, which wouldn’t hold in the waves, or allow me to cast far enough into the surf to reach any of the productive water. My twin seven-year-old daughters were ready to catch their first saltwater fish, so I needed a new strategy. 

The young man working in the tackle shop closest to our Cocoa Beach hotel told me about several spots that might be just out of the wind enough to fish with my setup. He then showed me the smallest jigheads, hooks and sinkers they sold. I left with the ocean equivalent of panfish tackle and drove north until I found a private beach with paid access. Using my phone to check some aerial photography, I could see a pier and a jetty, and it looked like the best fishing might be shielded from the big waves. 

My first spot was a bust, but farther out on the pier I started to get bites. Pinfish were the first takers, but then I caught a blowfish that the girls would have found fascinating. A few small hairy blennies bit as well, so I drove back to the hotel to get the girls and their Uncle Dave, who didn’t want to miss a chance to see what the fishing was like. 

We’d just started to pluck a few hairy blennies from the rocks when a bikini-clad local with a cast-net and a fishing rod walked up. She surveyed our setup and said, “Honey, you’re all wrong. Everything you have is wrong.” She didn’t even let me respond before she walked off. 

A few minutes later we walked up the pier to see if we could find an open spot when another fishermen approached us and said, “Come on down. They’re biting at the end of the pier. All you need is a crappie jig.” 

When I told him my crappie jigs were 1000 miles away, he opened his tackle box and pulled a white marabou jig out and then unspooled three feet of 40-pound fluorocarbon for a leader. I watched as he set us up and when he finished he said, “Tip the jig with a piece of shrimp, cast it straight out and let it hit the bottom. Then, pop it back in.”

On the first cast I did just that and within a few cranks of the reel a whiting bit. I handed the rod to Lila, who landed it while fisherman down the entire length of the pier cheered. The next cast produced the exact same results for her twin sister and it was smiles all around. We fished under a double rainbow while birds of all varieties tried to snatch our bait. The local who had set us up told us stories about fishing and offered up tips. 

It was one of those evenings when you pray to whoever might be listening to delay the sunset for a few more minutes just to wring the most out of the experience, but eventually we packed it in and thanked our new friend. 

As we walked off the pier, the bikini-clad rod critic who’d stopped us earlier was leaning hard against a fish that had some weight to it. Her fishing partner clambered down on the rocks with a net and when he popped up, a three-foot shark bowed the bottom of the net. 

The woman let fly with the mother of all swear words, which sent my daughters into a giggling fit. But that ended when she told the girls to walk on up and touch the fish. They were wide-eyed and surprised at the shark’s rough skin. It was a perfect ending to the most fun we had during eight days of theme-parks and beach fun in Florida. 

The shore fishing opportunities we found on our latest trip were no accident, even though we leaned heavily on local help. Here are some of the ways we made the trip a success.

Carry A Pack Rod: I always travel with a collapsible rod and just enough tackle to hit the water wherever we end up. The rod is a $20, whippy six-footer that is better than nothing and has been good enough for a wide variety of saltwater fish over the years.

It’s too small for a lot of fish, but good enough for a seven-year old or an adult man with the fishing enthusiasm of a seven-year old. The idea is to be able to fish any time an opportunity comes up, and if you’re looking, it usually does.

Buy A Time-Specific License: Pretty much everywhere you go you’ll probably need a fishing license, but most states will sell you a time-specific license that is usually good for a few days and is often cheaper than the fee to check one bag at the airport.

Tap The Local Tackle Shop: Aside from that, you’ll probably need a little help. I always do some internet research on the fish that might be available and the public spots I can visit, but there’s nothing that replaces local knowledge. I can remember strolling into a tackle shop in Key West one time and asking the fellow behind the counter what to use and he simply asked me where I was staying. After telling him, he grabbed a few jigheads, some shrimp and said, “Throw it out and then let it sit on the bottom."

Mangrove snapper and grunts bit nonstop along with a few bonus barracuda and before long, my wife and I had an entire group of people fishing with us. Several had young kids and while they hailed from all over the country, we all shared a similar love for fishing. It was an incredible vacation and the trip that solidified my resolve for always traveling with enough tackle to take advantage of new adventure.

Nowadays, that new adventure involves a pair of little girls who want to catch fish and see string rays and experience what the world of water has to offer. It’s a gift that so many destinations offer. If that sounds appealing, consider picking up an inexpensive travel rod and doing a little research before your next family outing. You just might find a local fishing community that will take you in as one of their own, which is what fishing is all about.

After the shot, stay as calm as you can and stay focused on the deer. Watch it as long as you can then listen even longer. Often you will hear the deer long after you can’t see it anymore.

Before you leave your stand, pick a clear landmark where you last saw the deer and another where you last heard the deer. Also, pick a landmark noting where the deer was when you shot. Have these landmarks firmly in your mind before you exit yours stand. If you have a compass, take a bearing to each of these locations. Snap a few photos with your cell phone or use a small notepad to note the locations or draw yourself a little schematic that shows these three key landmarks.

Go to where you last saw the deer and look for blood and tracks. Remember to look on the bushes as well as on the ground for blood. If you fail to find any, go to spot where you shot the deer and search for blood and/or hair. If you still don’t find a blood trail of any kind, go back to your stand and double check to make sure you were looking in the right places.

Next, start where you last saw the deer and walk to the location where you last heard the deer. Watch for blood and other sign along the way. Sometimes it takes a while for the blood trail to start. 

When you find blood, note its location. Is it high up on the bushes and far out from the trail? That might indicate arterial spurting. Does it seem to be in the center of the tracks, even though you took a broadside shot? That might be lung blood leaking out of the nose and mouth. Is the blood in the track? Maybe it’s running down the leg.

Is there green gunk on the ground with a little blood? That’s a gut shot. Resist the tendency to keep tracking that deer. Leave quietly and come back in the morning, or at least six hours later. A gut shot deer will lie down very quickly and if you leave it alone, it will die in that bed. Usually it will be relatively close to where you shot it. But if you keep pushing and jump the deer, they can turn into the Terminator, unable or unwilling to die and they can run for miles.

Did you find pieces of bone? Trust me, it’s not ribs as so many people think; 95% of the time it is pieces of leg bone. You may get that deer, but it’s not going to be easy.

A lot of blood at the start that turns into a few drips and then stops in a ¼ mile or so, is usually a low hit in the brisket. You are in for a long day with that deer.

With a leg or brisket hit, the deer is very mobile and will keep moving if pushed. If you can get some help, it’s best to place hunters along the escape routes and hope the deer comes by as you track the blood.

If the blood trail is tough to follow, mark the blood you found with toilet paper or torn paper towels, so you can easily find it again. Although many people recommend using flagging material, I don’t use it. I know you plan to come back and take it all down, but plans rarely work out. Flagging tape lasts a long time in the woods. Paper towels or toilet paper are biodegradable and will disappear rather quickly.

Often, if you line up several pieces of paper you left hanging on branches you can see a clear direction of travel, which is a good place to continue the search if you have lost the blood and tracks.

Take care to walk to the side of the deer trail. You never want to step on the tracks or the blood. You may think you won’t need to come back and find them again, but you will probably be wrong. Leave all the sign untrampled.

Tracking With Technology

Photograph Courtesy of Leupold® & Stevens, Inc.

I used a thermal imaging unit in Zimbabwe a few years ago to watch for lions while the PH and trackers cut up a buffalo I had shot just before dark. Back then they were very expensive. Today, there are several affordable units designed for tracking.

I have been using a Leupold LTO Quest. This is their entry-level unit and it has a camera and flashlight built in with the thermal sensor. Leupold claims the LTO Quest can detect heat signatures out to 300 yards. Deer season is closed as I am writing this, so I am finding alternatives to test it with. It easily can find my dogs even when they are out some distance.

I couldn’t find a blood donor to help with the test, so I spit on my walkway on a cool night. The unit could easily see it, even after several minutes. This unit is sensitive enough that when I stood on my deck in my socks, the unit could detect my foot prints for several minutes after.

This technology may well be a game changer for tracking and finding wounded deer in the years ahead.

If you lose the blood trail, make wide sweeping circles that start and end at the last place you found blood. Keep your eyes on the ground and miss nothing. If you fail to find the trail, make a bigger circle. Repeat as necessary.

The recent passing of a deer will scuff up the leaves. Older tracks will settle from time and gravity, but a fresh track will show a bit higher. It’s usually not noticeable when standing up, but when you get your eyes to ground level you can often see the trail very clearly.

A grid search is just what it sounds like. Divide the land into a giant grid, just like on graph paper. The lines should be close together so that no part of the land is unseen. Walk along these imaginary lines one by one until you find the deer, or some sign of the deer, or have walked the entire grid.

In that case, expand the grid and repeat. Look under every bush and in every brush pile. A mortally wounded deer will often crawl under cover and will die there.

You have no doubt read that when tracking at night, a Coleman lantern, “makes blood glow like neon.” The lantern does show blood a bit better than a conventional flashlight, but it’s always been a disappointment to me when I have used one. Besides, who has a Coleman lantern in their backpack?

A quality flashlight will show blood like its electrified. It’s a good idea to have one in your pocket or backpack when hunting.

Walk along while thinking, “If I were a wounded deer, which way would I go?” Just follow your instincts. You may have to return to the last sign and strike out in another direction a few times, but sooner or later the odds are you will find a new spot of blood or identifiable track and you’ll be back in the game.

Another approach is to turn off your brain and just walk. Let the terrain and vegetation guide your feet. Deer and other animals will take the path of least resistance and if you walk in a “Zen” state, going with the flow, you will find you do the same thing.

Once you get in tune with the woods, things like that just happen in the back of your mind. If you try to think about it too much, you screw it up, but if you just let the reptilian part of your brain operate then eons of evolution are suppressed and the caveman in you will come out of hiding and turn you into a creature of the woods, just like the deer. I know this may sound a bit too “new age,” but I have found several animals we thought were hopeless using this technique.